Holmfirth Wine Puddle

Following last years fabulousWineLake ©, Kathy and Colin Bradley kindly invited us to a mini-WineLake, a Wine Puddle, if you will, at Holmfirth.

Having not been out for some months, Kim and I were determined to make it, especially as it’s only a short trip from BD Mansions. So, armed with empty stomachs, advanced knowledge of Colin’s culinary prowess and a somewhat cobwebbed wine notebook, we duly arrived…

Below are my Tasting Notes, written up in their honour.

1. Sparkling Shiraz, “Show” Seppelt Great Western 1990, 13.5%

Off to a great start as an aperitif with crostini, this showed a good mousse, deep sweet plum fruit and excellent balance, good dry finish without the tannins that can make this style rather odd. Very good, lovely glugger and a bit more besides. Now.

2. Sparkling Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Charles Melton 1991, 13.5%

This was the more complex and ultimately the more satisfying of the pair. A nose at once perfumed floral and also savoury, hinting at complexity to come. As well as a belt of stewed dark fruits there was also a touch of Brett, at a moderate level I found this added interest and complexity without obliterating the fruit. Sparkling Shiraz and elegance in the same sentence? Excellent. No hurry.

3. Vin Jaune, Chateau-Chalon, Henri Maire. 1979, 13%

Now we’re getting somewhere. Deep straw yellow, with a lovely sherried oxidised nose sitting over pears and vanilla. Had to be Savagnin. Intense flavours follow the nose and a dry vanilla length measured in minutes. Really opened up after half an hour too, for me reminiscent of Josko Gravner’s Breg. Superb example, terrific, with the amuse bouche, a tiny soup (in the way fino sherry goes with gazpacho, for instance). Once bitten, forever smitten etc, etc. No hurry. White wine of the night.

4. Chateau de Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône, Reynaud Fonsalette, 1992, 14%

Served blind. Deep straw colour. Good honeyed nose, lots of evident development, real intensity and focus, minerality. Caramel finish. Can’t be a CdR blanc! Punches well beyond the appellation. A revelation. Now.

5. Hermitage Blanc, Chave, 1989, 13%

Much lighter colour, much finer nose, lots of development. Initially suffered after the CdR. A brilliant match for the Puy lentil terrine, harmony, balance and huge length, needs to be on its own. Not showy. Just subtle. Much grander than Chapoutier’s Chante Alouette. Now, but no hurry.

6. Chardonnay, "Picadilly", Grosset, Adelaide Hills, S. Australia 1997

Massive nose, intense wet wool/wet fur coupled with deep golden yellow suggested Chenin. But on the palate, figgy fruit led to Chardonnay, as did the high toast treatment, big caramel notes (set for 11 on the amplifier). Meursault on steroids, remarkably fine, fruit fading now, very enjoyable. Drink up.

7. Puligny Montrachet, Les Garennes Premier Cru, Sauzet, 2000. 13.5%

A little enigmatic. Good typicity, very fine, delicate and elegant, fresh but lacks a bit of minerality. Not ready, come back in 3-4 years. However even at this young age a great match for the fish dish, Dover Sole in Sauternes Sauce with Shitake mushrooms, a la Marco Pierre White.

8. Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru Les Corbeaux, Vielles Vignes, Domaine Bachelet 1990, 13%

Perfumed, pinosity, if you will. Sous-bois development is the best part of this wine. Palate is very fine, red cherry fruit and plenty of development, poise and power. Good length and immensely satisfying. Intellectual. A privilege. Probably has years ahead, if you can resist the temptation. Almost Red of the night, but needs contemplation.

9. Flaccianello della Pieve, Tenute Fontodi, VdT Panzano 1990, 13%

Then I met this. First impression: what’s that amazing Italian? Deep and brooding. Powerful nose just jumps out the glass. All sorts in here, raisiny fruit, loose tea, tobacco. Raisined red berry fruit, loose tea palate, still some tannic structure, shouts Sangiovese. Long finish and a hint of the bitter almond. Massive sediment thrown, so good I chewed through it. What is it? Flaccianello, the original pure Sangiovese Supertuscan. Tre Bicchieri. I was tempted to hide it up my jumper. Drink now. Red of the night, suited the sort of bouncy-tigger mood.

10. Pomerol, Chateau Gazin, 1990. 12.5%

The third 1990, had to follow two great acts and under the circumstances did well.
Gazin is next door to Petrus, so surely should be good? Typical Claret character, big tobacco nose, pencil shavings, green leaf, cherry fruit. Definitely Bretty, imparting a meaty, gamey, savoury character.  A subtle graceful wine, again clever food match with Partridge.

11. Amarone, Serèzo Aligheri, Masi, Bottle #11039, DOC 1985, 16%

Browning development, going bricky. Raisining fruit palate, certainly past peak now, high acid and alcohol fruit is gently fading away, and the expected viscous texture/mouthfeel is going too. Still enjoyable but drink up.

12. "Grandfather", Penfolds, NV, 19%

Never previously encountered. Port style for sure, but not Port. Not Maury or Rivesaultes, yet all are good comparisons. Caramel and toffee flavours suggest Tawny Port, colour is ruby-ish. Obvious alcoholic warmth, sweet and smooth, no subtlety here. Worked wonders with Blue Stilton, less so with Mimolette.

13. Eiswein, Riesling, Weingut Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler, Bernkastel, Mosel, 1983 ?%

Burnished gold. Vital kerosene nose. Surprisingly light yet broad palate. Could have done with a bit more acidity though complex flavours of apricot and tangerines and an ethereal nature sure signs of quality, as was the absence of botrytis. The gentleness of the wine was a good match for a fruit salad with passionfruit, orange sauce and black pepper.

14.Vin SantoToscano, VdT, Crociani 1993 15%

Deep amber, powerful oxidised nose with florality and dried apple fruit. High acidity too, always a good ending with contucci amaretto biscuits that do accentuate that bitter almond finish.

What other than a superb evening, fabulous convivial company, cuisine really of the very highest level (we frantically scribbled recipes down) accompanied by some truly great bottles and quite a few surprises!

Now there’s a tonic to keep us going until WineLake 2006!