Prosecco and Bisol

What is Prosecco?

Far too often Prosecco is inexpensive, foaming over-sweetened Italian fizz without any great character. Picnic Fun and Not Serious are frequently heard descriptions. The Froth of Venice is another. Actually, I’ve just made that last one up.

Stop right there. When a quality minded producer is involved Prosecco is capable of making hugely enjoyable fine wine. Of around 4,500 producers perhaps a handful of the top producers are making superb Prosecco, including Azienda Agricola Bisol.

Prosecco is both the name of the grape and the wine made from it. This white grape is native to the Veneto region of Italy, the large production area lying north of Venice, near Treviso. With one or two exceptions Prosecco is grown almost nowhere else.

This being Italy, things are never quite that simple. Prosecco (the grape) can make Prosecco (the wine) on its own, but small quantities of other grapes like Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Verdiso can be blended in too.

Prosecco can also be made as a still white wine (both dry and sweet) but the majority is sparkling, which is generally what we see in the UK. To add complication the sparkling wine may be Frizzante, (semi-sparkling) or it may be Spumante (fully sparkling).

There are also Non-Vintage and Vintage versions as well as a range of dry and sweeter styles. In labelling terms Brut is classically dry, as you might expect. However Extra Dry is confusingly an off-dry style, while Dry can be a little sweeter still.

Top producers like Bisol also make different Prosecco bottlings according to vineyard origins and even barrel fermentation may be used to bring extra complexity.

To make Prosecco, the grapes undergo a normal fermentation to make the base wines. However, the secondary fermentation that then makes the bubbles is by the Charmat method, a nicer sounding name for a pressure tank or autoclave. There is no bottle fermentation (metodo classico) as would be found in Champagne or Franciaciorta. While Charmat is undoubtedly cheaper, the resultant style of Fizz is quite different. Fresh fruitiness and attractive floral aromas are paramount and much prized, in contrast to the yeasty, bready or leesy character more typical of bottle fermentation. The Spumante mousse tends to be more vivacious but less long lasting in the glass too. In fact there have been several unsuccessful experiments with using metodo classico for making Prosecco but the grape appears to be not suited to it.

Prosecco is most certainly not imitation or cut-price Champagne – it’s meant to be different and it has a personality and style all of its own. The best examples are extremely good, so there is more than, ahem, Just One Prosecco (hum to the tune of O sole mio).

And so to Bisol

The DOC classified (and the best) part of the Prosecco zone is the hilly area between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene as this has more favourable vineyard sites compared to the flatter plains. Bisol is based at Valdobbiadene, and the Bisol family trace their history here back to 1542, although their winemaking started more recently, in 1875.

Today they own some of the finest Prosecco vineyards, with sixteen sites totalling 50 hectares. This is a large holding given the fragmented ownership and tiny vineyard plots. Bisol grow predominantly Prosecco, but also Verdiso, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Nero and an Italian crossing of Riesling and Pinot Bianco called (strangely) Incrocio Manzoni 6.0.13. As well as being very beautiful the rolling hills provide many different slopes and aspects. As there are also a variety of soils and microclimates Bisol have produced several different cuvées and styles of Prosecco.

I’ve picked three examples from the Bisol Range that encapsulate Bisol Prosecco at different price points, each with a distinctive personality and increasing in quality. All - Jeìo, Crede and Cartizze – are Spumante (fully sparkling) and can be found in the UK in very stylish packaging. They should be served well chilled (8 or 9 degrees C is ideal) in tall flute glasses.

Jeìo Brut, Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOC, Bisol, NV, 12%, Veneto, Italy

Jeìo is a non-vintage brand created by Bisol, with the Bisol name shown only on the neck label. This is their “entry level” Prosecco that comes in three different styles. There’s the off-dry Colmei Extra Dry that is 100% Prosecco, and also the drier Cuvée Brut, a blend of Prosecco, Incrocio Manzoni 6.0.13, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Verdiso.

But the most representative of the three is Valdobbiadene Brut and this is the one featured here, a blend of 90% Prosecco with 6% Pinot Bianco and 4% Verdiso.

This is very lively, frothy foam settling to a steady bead when poured, a very pale straw colour. Aromatic relatively subdued nose with floral notes. The palate has mouth watering high acidity, making it very fresh and just a touch sharp. There’s apple fruit and a sherbet-prickle quality from the bubbles. Despite the 9 grammes of residual sugar it finishes nicely dry, with a medium length. Very good quality and easy enjoyable drinking. Makes a good aperitif.

Bibendum £9.07, Wine Buy The Case £8.02 (Case of 6)

Moving up from Jeìo the Bisol-labelled bottlings are referred to as “The Cru”. These include Crede and Cartizze below.

Crede Brut, Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOC, Bisol, 2005, 11.5%, Veneto, Italy

Crede is a blend of 85% Prosecco, 10% Pinot Bianco & 5% Verdiso from a single harvest year, here 2005. Crede is named after the clay soils found on the steep hills that surround the Bisol estate on which the grapes are grown. Bisol say that these soils are responsible for a richness of character unusual in most Prosecco.
A deeper medium-straw colour with hints of pale gold, the initial vivacity subsides to a slow but steady bubble stream. The nose is much fuller and more aromatic, showing, elderflower and ripe pears. With a little less obvious acid than Jeìo, nevertheless this is sappy and mouth watering, being the driest Bisol style with 10g of residual sugar. Full bodied for a Prosecco, very creamy with pronounced apple and pear fruit and a lovely prickle from the bubbles. A much longer length with a fleeting hint of almond. Crede offers a big step up in quality for a modest price increase.

Bibendum £11.80, Wine Buy The Case £10.95 (Case of 6)

Malmaison also stock Crede in their restaurant, their best value fizz.

Cartizze Dry, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOC, Bisol, 2005, 11.5%, Veneto, Italy

In contrast to Crede, Cartizze is 100% Prosecco, and also from a very different source. The slopes of the Cartizze area have much lighter sandier soil and a particularly cool microclimate that encourages long slow ripening and hence more complexity in the grapes. Cartizze is judged to be the superior sub-region of Prosecco, and in recognition Superiore is added to the label. The 107 hectares of Cartizze vineyards are much prized and Bisol have just 3 hectares – which is actually a very large holding.

This is a much deeper and more golden colour and again there’s that wild flower nose, elderflower and hedgerows. In addition this time there’s also peach and pear scents. There palate shows a rich intensity, initially lemony, most definitely ripe pears. But in addition there is a pure peach delicacy and a definite mineral quality. Cartizze has far more complexity to offer. The texture is pillowed – there’s a delicate enveloping softness yet it still manages the trick of finishing crisply and cleanly. An herbaceous quality comes through on a long length with a trace of honey right at the end. Real elegance and finesse here, a delicious treat.

Cartizze has 25gl residual sugar and is off dry in style. This suggests that there are some interesting food matches to be had. Try with Sushi or Sashimi as starters, or perhaps more conventionally Cartizzewould make a good match for light desserts or pastries. But do try it with Panettone; the rich cake and fruit is a delightful match.

Much more expensive perhaps, but Cartizze really shows what Prosecco is capable of.

Bibendum £23.30, Wine Buy The Case £18.50 (case of 6)

 

Final thoughts

Bisol prove that their Prosecco is anything but prosaic.

The other Bisol Prosecco Cru are Salis, Vignetti del Fol and Garnéi, the latter is a range topping selection of the best grapes from each Bisol holding given barrel treatment and extra ageing. All are excellent and yet show different aspects to Crede and Cartizze.

These are wines designed for drinking now, while there’s good fruit and fresh aromatics. There is nothing to be gained by keeping them, so get those corks popping. Summer is a perfect time to enjoy them.

Finally, Bisol make a still dry white wine (Molera), small amounts of a still passito dessert wine (Duca di Dolle), plus Metodo Classico fizz based on Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. I tried these at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in London last year and all are excellent and worth discovering.

Postscript – Bellini Cocktails

Prosecco is also and essential ingredient in Bellini, the classic Sparkling Peach Cocktail classic first served at Harry’s Bar in Venice. Bisol’s Prosecco is too good to act as a cocktail mixer but should you find yourself confronted by a lesser Prosecco, this easy and quick recipe might prove handy:

2 ripe Peaches, peeled, halved and stoned
Chilled Prosecco Spumante (preferably Brut)
2 chilled flute glasses

Purée the peaches in a blender until smooth. Spoon into the chilled glasses and slowly top up with Prosecco, stirring gently as you pour. Use a ratio of one-third peach purée to two thirds Prosecco.

Serve, keeping enough back for that second glass. Truly a taste of Venice!