What we drank at the Osteria Boccondivino

A companion wine piece to Andy Leslie’s food article on the Osteria Boccondivino in Bra, Italy, the original Slow Food restaurant.

With a starter of Asparagus with Basil Hollandaise:

Paolo Scavino, Langhe Bianco DOC, 2006, 14%

The palest golden glints, slightly petillant. There’s a full aromatic nose, we speculated that it was some blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and were later pleased to confirm that this was indeed a 50-50 blend. Chardonnay dominates the nose initially. As it warmed, the Sauvignon element came through, a green aroma reminiscent of mange-tout. The palate showed good refreshing acidity but was softly textured and fairly full bodied – suspect a full Malolactic fermentation, buoyed by a little petillance to add some spritz. Good balance of fruit, acidity and alcohol. An interesting chalky minerality comes through on a medium length. A food wine, locally made by a top producer and a great match for the Asparagus. A bargain price in the restaurant at €12.50 per bottle.

With Gnocchi di patate al pomodoro e basilica, salads and a selection of local cheeses:

Fratelli Brovia, Barolo Villero, DOCG, 1998, 14%

The main event, and what a stupendous wine! I could simply tell you that this is my Wine of the Year for 2007. It’s unlikely to be equalled this year and is one of the most enjoyable Barolo’s it’s ever been my pleasure to meet. Here’s why.

This 1998 vintage is absolutely á point. It’s a single vineyard wine (cru) too – from a steep vineyard near Castiglione Faletto. A classic terroir wine that really reflects its origins, with personality and individuality, made with love and care. A great balance of power, structure and fruit complexity. Decanted, it had thrown quite a sediment – there’s no filtration used at Brovia. Visually, all the classic Barolo hallmarks are there – there’s the orange rim, with just the first flecks of browning showing against a crimson core. Swirling this in the glass, it looks full, inviting and powerful. Exciting stuff, one to make the pulse race with anticipation.

The nose is extraordinary. Scented, perfumed. No need to stick your nose in the glass, the aromas come out to meet you. Where to start? Dried roses. Freshly dug earth. Bacon fat, violets, raw meat…the more it opened up the more nuances there were to find. Red cherry fruit and finally a tarry note. Really, Chanel should find a way to bottle this. Heady and seductive.

The palate continues the theme, with dried cherry, cranberry, mulberry, leather notes and sous-bois. A length measured in minutes, exhibiting a wonderful tangy balsamic fade. Exquisite balance and harmony, silken textured. Sheer elegance despite all that power and intensity. These moments are what life is all about. After being open for two hours (this is Slow Food, right?), it changed again, becoming more raisiny and herby – oregano anyone?

Captivating, enthralling and simply profound, this is why fine Barolo is one of the world’s classic wines. Dangerously addictive. €42 for a bottle of this in a first class restaurant in Italy is a steal; if any wine could replace Pinot Noir in my affections, this could.

3. With Rose Petal Panna Cotta or Sorbet for dessert

Marchesi di Gresy, Moscato Passito, “l’Altro Moscato”, DOC, 2005, 11%

Marchesi di Gresy’s range of wines includes this sweet Muscat, partially made from dried grapes in a passito style. An attractive mid-golden colour, lovely scents of honeyed lemons waft out from the glass. The palate has a gentle medium sweetness. The palate has a gentle honeyed richness, featuring a range of citrus flavours – lemon, grapefruit and orange zest can all be found. This is a late harvest style with just a hint of Botrytis. To be critical, it could have done with a touch more acidity to balance the sweetness, but it’s a nice example nonetheless and it seems churlish to carp when it’s only €4.50 per glass.