Andy Leslie’s Wines of the Year, 2007

Best wine of the year

• Fratelli Brovia, Barolo Villero DOCG, Italy.1998

Perfect. Read about it here.

White

• Domaine de Trévallon Blanc, VdP des Bouches du Rhone, Provence, France. 1997

Absolutely gorgeous and classic Provençal white. This is a Marsanne and Roussanne blend which pushes all my buttons – it has an intense, complex and assertive nose of grilled brazil nuts and honeysuckle along with a grapefruit acidity that keeps it smelling fresh. Complex notes of orange peel, lemon zest and pebbly minerality are all present too. On the palate this has huge acidity at the moment but plenty of background richness and a smooth glycerine quality. Fabulous now, and for many years to come.

Red

• Giuseppe Mascarello, Barolo Monprivato DOCG, Italy. 1998

What a nose! Ethereal, subtle and elegant – there’s classic tar & roses, turkish delight, bacon fat savoury notes and hints of spiciness too. Contemplative and fascinating. In the mouth it’s an iron fist in a velvet glove – mountains of flavour wrapped-up in a package that is smooth, long and silky with gentle well-integrated tannins. Great balance, great length – great now, but should be outstanding in 5-10 years.

I’ve developed a bit of a thing for dead simple wines this year – wines that are not made to be complex or long-lasting, but to be drunk young and put a smile on your face. These are the two best:

Simple white

• Domaine Valentin Zusslin, Muscat Cuvée Marie, Alsace, France. 2003. Biodynamic.

Does exactly what Muscat should – lovely perfumed floral elderflower nose and a palate that is rich, balanced and long. Perfect for outdoor drinking on a beautiful day.

Simple red

• Villa Giada, Viticoltore Andrea Faccio, Brachetto DOC, Piemonte, Italy. 2007

This comes fresh from the winery, made for early drinking – it’s only 6% alcohol and is nicely freshly frizzante. The nose - simple, clean and hugely appealing - smells of strawberries, raspberries and red cherries. In the mouth it is slightly sweet, but the sour-fruited acidity keeps everything in lovely balance.

Dessert Wine

• Castellare di Castellina, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC, San Niccolò, Toscana, Italy. 2001

One of only a few hundred half-bottles made each year. The Malvasia Bianca and Trebbiano Toscano grapes are hung-up to dry in a wooden shed before being very traditionally vinified. It had a deep rich orange colour and a really full-on and striking oxidised-style nose. Complex, multi-layered, and quite volatile with orange peel and brazil-nut notes. Rich and complex in the mouth too, but with loads of balancing acidity. Superb.