Domaine Gauby, Calce, Agly valley, Roussillon

Back in the Nineties we visited Raymond Blanc’s le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons. The food and surroundings were truly memorable, as befits one of Britain’s top restaurants. Their wine list contained an innovative “discoveries” section - a range of unusual and interesting wines sold by the glass. And this is how I found Domaine Gauby’s Les Rocailles, a white Vin de Pays de Côtes Catalanes from Roussillon in deepest southern France. My next encounter was in 2006 at the Return to Terroir tasting in London. This included Gauby’s stunning red - Muntada. Finally in summer of 2007 we had the opportunity to visit to the Domaine and meet winegrower and owner Gérard Gauby.

Domaine Gauby is on the southern side of the rugged valley of the river Agly, in the foothills of the Pyrenees, inland from Perpignan near a hamlet called Calce. This area does not possess its own appellation, relying either on the large and rather clumsy AC Côtes du Roussillon or the smaller and slightly more descriptive Vin des Pays de Côtes Catalanes. Once it seemed that the prettily named but frankly unpronounceable Coteaux de Fenouillèdes might give definition to the area but apparently this has been abandoned. The Vin Doux Naturel appellations of Maury and Rivesaltes are also local, but though there are some stunning sweet wines, they are unfashionable. Historically the regions’ reputation was for ordinary table wines defined by high alcohol and rusticity. Now the area is responsible for an increasing range of good quality dry whites and reds, while the best producers are making magnificent wines.

This is also a region steeped in violent history, as the vertiginous Cathar castles of nearby Quéribus and Peyrepertuse bear witness. These are the visible remains of the Albigensian heresy, where centuries ago the local Cathar religion was suppressed by massacre, inquisition and burning at the stake.

In our modern world the Agly valley now has a more peaceful heresy in the form of Biodynamics. It is no exaggeration to state that, right now, this is the most exciting wine area in France. It stretches eastwards along the river Agly from inland Fenouillet and St-Martin, down through Maury and thence to Calce. From there it is but a short journey to Rivesaltes and the Mediterranean. To the north are the villages of Tautavel and Vingrau that signpost the way to the high Corbières. To the south are the snow-capped Pyrenees and the Spanish border.

Calce is named after the local limestone (calcaire) that outcrops here, occasionally jumbled with black schist. At an altitude of around 400 metres, the journey up from Estagel on the winding D18 is a spectacular treat. On a beautifully clear July morning the views get increasingly panoramic as the road twists and buckles between olive groves and almond trees. Tiny vineyards are populated with gnarled ancient bush vines. Precious little else will grow commercially amidst the stone outcrops and scratchy thin soils of the garrigue.

From Calce, Gauby’s isolated modern home at La Muntada is reached at the end of a narrow track after another couple of kilometres, where we are warmly welcomed by his wife, Ghislaine. Then, while braving the attentions of a rather large and over-amorous dog, (just one example from a seemingly endless menagerie of fur), we descend into the extensive cellars to meet Gérard. The cellars look recently made and are packed with a mix of unlined concrete tanks, old oak foudres and some newer oak barriques. The coolness of the cellars makes for a welcome respite from the already rising heat.

Gérard Gauby is big of charisma, charm and build, cutting an imposing figure in the dim cellar light. He greets us with a strong local Catalan accent, where vin is pronounced veng. He is already a winemaking legend with a reputation created over more than twenty years. Often referred to as “the uncrowned king of the Roussillon”, such an epithet is richly deserved. Another heresy: this domaine is the equal of any found in the more illustrious regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux, Alsace, the Rhône or the Loire. No wonder then that a whole quality wine culture has grown around Gauby. He is the inspiration and Calce the touchstone. Pilgrims come to pay their respects; wine lovers, acolytes and would-be disciples all want to understand Gauby’s Midas-touch.

Other excellent estates nearby have often been inspired by Gauby and are frequently Biodynamic. These include Domaine Matassa (run by Tom Lubbé and Gerard’s daughter Nathalie), plus Olivier Pithon, Jean-Philippe Padié and Eric Leguerre. Gerard Gauby is also a partner, with Leguerre and UK merchants Richards Walford, in another highly rated property at St-Martin called le Soula.

A family-run domaine, Gerard took on just 5 hectares from his Grandfather, Philippe Sol, in 1985. While already seeking to carry on family traditions, the first change he made was to stop selling grapes to the local co-op. The next was to embrace organics in 1996, which roughly coincided with international recognition. Gerard says he realised the wisdom of ecology after finding dead birds killed by his own pesticides. Then, inspired by his friend Marcel Deiss he went biodynamic in 2001 and completely changed his winemaking philosophy. He now shuns extraction and huge alcoholic power in favour of wines deliberately lower in alcohol that major on elegance and finesse. Muntada was once made at over 15% alcohol. These days it’s a more palatable and food-friendly 13.5% and all the better for that.

Gauby’s total commitment to ecology means he goes much further than any official BD prescription. Meanwhile he has also expanded by buying and consolidating many old vineyard parcels, frequently unwanted and neglected. There are now 43 hectares under vine, with a great diversity of grapes, soils, aspects and slopes.

The Vineyards

Naturally enough the vineyard terroir is the key to the greatness of the wines. It is very dry and sunny, with sweltering summer temperatures. Altitude is a key factor, with most vines at 450-550m. Diurnal variation (hot days and cool nights) encourages longer and slower grape ripening, the result being complexity and freshness in the wines despite the southern heat.

Some 150 individual parcels have been reorganised, most are small plots enclosed by ancient dry-stone walls. Between them there is fallow land, dotted with oak trees and full of wild fennel, rosemary and thyme. There is also mixed agriculture; cereals, olives and almonds. Such areas act as buffer zones for the vines, preserving habitats and biodiversity, encouraging beneficial insects and birds. They also ensure that there is no contamination from any pesticide sprays used by neighbours.

The vineyards are a riot of grass and weeds and to the untutored eye look neglected. But this is for a reason - as well as habitat and biodiversity, the vines are forced to compete, deepening their roots in search of water and minerals. In this hot and arid climate the weeds and grass also help retain the moisture essential for a healthy living soil and act as a green manure when ploughed in.

A wide variety of grapes are grown. In white there is Carignan blanc, Chardonnay, Grenache blanc, Grenache gris, Maccabeu, Muscat and Viognier. In red there is Carignan, Grenache noir, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mostly these varieties are traditional to the area and range from 20 to a geriatric 125 years old. Gauby loves old vines that give tiny yields with incredible flavour and has nurtured them back into life. The Carignan is now 125 years old, pre-phylloxera plantings that somehow survived the insects’ ravages.

Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah were also brought in. The Syrah has been wildly successful, a strain created by massal selection called Petite Sérine. The Cabernet Sauvignon? Gauby shrugs theatrically, suffice to say that Cabernet is no longer a part of the current wine range.

The vineyards are where the hard manual work is carried out by Gérard, son Lionel and a small team. Everything is manual here with horses used for ploughing. The vines are pruned hard into standalone bushes with an open centre to reduce the risk of fungal diseases. Gauby has ceased the summer green harvest because the old vines have tiny yields anyway (from 15-25 hl/ha) and Gauby is no longer looking for sheer concentration. Early picking is also practised to retain acidity and freshness. Those long hang times fashionable elsewhere simply produce too much alcohol here.

The usual Biodynamic preparations are used; there is a cow employed for compost, nettle teas reduce the need for copper-based fungal treatments and insect control is by spraying tisanes of rosemary and thyme. Thanks to these the vines are in balance and deeply rooted. As proof, Gauby says, the vines did not shut down with heat stress even during the abnormal heat wave of 2003.

“We have the soils, the grapes and the climate to make subtle and authentic wines but we must work very hard with the vines”, says Gauby. When I ask whether BD certification would be a good idea I meet his irrefutable logic. “Why should I pay extra for certification – it’s those that use chemicals that should pay!”

The Winemaking

The winemaking in contrast seems deceptively simple and Gauby plays his undoubted winemaking skills down, being a firm believer that great wine is created outside in the vines. The reality is that he employs a set of natural winemaking techniques to get the results he wants, and what he wants is “authenticity”.

At harvest, the grapes are picked by hand and a table de tri is used to remove any unhealthy grapes. But here Gauby goes further - any beneficial insects found on the sorting table are returned to the land to continue their good work against pests! The red grapes are completely de-stemmed (eraflage) and receive 2-3 days maceration prior to fermentation, while the whites receive a slow and gentle pneumatic pressing.

Fermentation takes place in either unlined concrete tanks or older oak foudres, with individual plots kept apart for blending later. Natural wild yeasts are used and there is no chaptalisation (addition of sugar) or acidification. Minimal sulphur is used, there is never any filtration, just a natural debourbage at low temperature, and no fining takes place. Maturation features a very restrained use of new oak and final blending is entirely reliant on taste, with the goal being balance, precision and elegance. “Tasting is everything, that’s how I work out what to do”.

Tasting Notes

We had deliberately arranged the tasting for a biodynamic fruit day so all the auspices were right. These tasting notes focus solely on the wines from Domaine Gauby and so do not include the le Soula wines. The barrel tastings from the 2006 vintage are featured first and their final blending will not start until November or December 2008. While tasting young wines from barrel can be both an unpleasant experience and an inaccurate guide to the future, collectively these wines were already a joy. From barrel the whites were tasted after the reds, as is Gauby’s preference.

Barrel Samples

Mourvèdre 2006

A black beast, which I found to be a remarkable colour. “Colour – I don’t care about that!” remarks Gauby. What he does care about is the immensely floral nose overlaying blackcurrant. The palate is very intense black cherry with big, big tannins and a very spicy ending. Destined for Muntada but with spend another 12 months in barrel to tame those earthy tannins. Needs blending, far too intense by itself.

Syrah – from black Schist soils, 2006

Deep purple hue and very floral – that lovely white Lily cloud of perfume is here already. Blackberry fruit and a hugely spicy length. A dense brooding wine. 14% alcohol and will partially go into Muntada. Again, much too big and dense to bottle separately.

Syrah – from Calcareous Limestone soils, 2006

A very different Syrah and a real demonstration of how soils are critical to terroir. There is less alcohol at 13% and less density. The big nose isn’t floral at all, instead a powerful smell of truffles. A much more savoury and earthy toned palate mixed in with the blackberries. Even more tannin yet there is already a silken elegance.

Grenache 2006

Some fermentation aroma left and a prickle on the tongue. Merest hint of residual sugar says the fermentation is not quite complete, Gauby thinks a few more weeks. Already a mineral streak and spice. Much softer and much less tannin and alcohol here.

Carignan 2006

The ancient vines grown on their own rootstocks. Carignan vines typically develop complexity only with age and these are geriatric! Very floral and fragrant. Gérard mentioned a flower (is it tulip?). Very broad and mouth filling with great depth, fabulous power, poise and huge length. Really quite soft. In this brew you’ll also find pencil lead minerality and animal fur in addition to red berries. Wondrous!

Muntada rouge 2005

The Muntada blend now settling down. A Pinot Noir like perfume comes on like a very fine burgundy on the nose. Lots to find here. Now having gone through the components you can discern white lilies, tulip (?) and truffles. Dense and opaque. The palate already shows good balance and a seamless harmony of the above components. Fruit ranges from red berry through to plum with a lovely savoury undertow. Tannins in abundance for the long years ahead.

Vieilles Vignes blanc 2006

Already golden, pretty colour and pretty nose; just finished the malolactic fermentation. In style very like white Burgundy, with a real flinty streak and fresh acidity. This has a burgundian finesse with extra apricot fruit and no hint of oak. A slight oxidative tang on the back palate. Lovely now even though Gerard thinks this has potential to age over 20 years.

Coume Gineste blanc 2006

A tiny splash of Maccabeu added to Grenache’s blanc and gris for this year. Paler colour than the vieilles vignes, even more complexity. Fennel and broom flower on the nose, beautifully floral. Chalky minerality and a hint of butterscotch. Fruit ranges from grapefruit through to stone fruits. Superb balance and huge length. Honey will develop later.

Cuvée Caricia, Rivesaltes VDN 2006, 17.5%

Back to red – but a sweet red! Grenache Noir, about 25 g/l residual sugar so gently sweet. Mulberries, blackberry and blackcurrant. Dark, rich, spicy, slightly creamy. Port-style but less sweet and less fiery. Chocolate finish. One barrel only. A Grenat. Rustic it isn’t. Spices on the finish.

Rivesaltes, VDN 2004

Muscat blanc à petits grains and Grenache blanc - just one barrel. Honey, tarte tatin, white fruits and a roasted note too. That roasted flavour is there again on the palate – “roast onion” suggests Gérard. I assume it’s a Muscat de Rivesaltes but I’m so lost in the moment that I forget to ask. Not overly sweet at 75 g/l residual sugar but intense concentration and huge power. Intense apricot fruit then the honey on the length asserts itself. Very pure, a steely minerality underneath and then finally a hint of bonfire smoke.

Bottles

These are notes on bottles tasted at Domaine Gauby, augmented by others from the Return to Terroir tasting. Whites then the reds.

Les Calcinaires blanc, Vin de Pays de Côtes Catalanes, 2006. 13%

Muscat, 50%, vines 15-50 years old; Maccabeu 20%, vines 30-50 years old; Chardonnay 30%, vines 20 years old. Yields 20-25 hl/ha.
Tank fermented then 8 months on the lees. Calcareous soils. Just bottled at the domaine. Incredibly floral nose and stunning minerality, richness and elegance. Very well balanced and a long life ahead.

Vielles Vignes blanc, Vin de Pays de Côtes Catalanes, 2004. 12.5%

Maccabeu 40%, Grenache blanc 30%, Carignan blanc 5%, Grenache gris 10%, all vines 50-100 years old, plus 15% Chardonnay from 30 year old vines. Yields 15hl/ha. 8 months on the lees, 65% older oak foudres, 35% tank. Calcareous and schist-based soils. 8,000 bottles pa.
Vivacity! A very crisp and zingy wine. Needs 10 minutes to open up then honey and a creamy texture follows. Attractive hint of oxidation note and apricot fruit. Needs a year or two.

The 2003 has a slightly fuller body and a mealy texture, slightly honeyed stone fruit interplay with that hallmark minerality. Delicious now but keep if you can. “The 88’s and 89’s are now just right!” said Gauby.

Another 2003 tasted later in 2008 showed more development, especially after 20 minutes in the glass. A bright yellow-gold and leggy despite only 12.5%, this has a real richness and intensity on nose and palate. That mealy full rich texture is balanced by crisp acidity and sheer finesse. Initially apricot and peach fruit, underpinned by a flinty mineral streak. Later on a hint of apples shows through. Something else here gives that slight honey and oxidative note which finally reminds me of Calvados. Hazelnuts follow on a very long length. A superb wine and very good with fish and prawns, this has all the elegance of a fine white burgundy and clearly has many years ahead.

Coume Gineste blanc, Vin de Pays de Côtes Catalanes, 2002. 13%

50% Grenache blanc and 50% Grenache Gris, all vines 60 years old. New Barriques 50%, older oak foudres with battonage 50%. 12 months maturity. Yield only 15hl/ha. Only 2,000 bottles pa. Schist plus some calcareous soils. The north-facing single vineyard helps retain acidity and more gradual ripening.
Coume Gineste is literally a combe full of yellow Broom flowers, the same colour as the wine. It smells of broom and fennel and has the finesse and elegance of a Montrachet. A flinty/chalky minerality lies in wait and there are hints of butterscotch on a long fade. Drinking nicely now but try to resist! My favourite Gauby wine, for me greater even than Muntada. Gauby sees my reaction. “Now who cares about appellations?” he says with a wink.

Les Calcinaires rouge, AC Côtes du Roussillon Villages, 2006.13%

Grenache noir 15%, 12 year old vines; Carignan 10% 23 year old vines; Mourvèdre 25% 15yo vines; Syrah 50% 10 year old vines. Yields 25hl/ha. Older oak foudres 20%, Tank 80%, 10 months maturity. Calcareous and Schist soils. 5,000 bottles pa.
Very young and nowhere near ready, dominance of Syrah shows through on nose - lily. Big brooding colour, blackish core with a purple rim. Plenty of tannins, big fruit and acidity. Very pure fruit flavours with no oak effects and huge length. Needs a minimum of 5 years.

Vieilles Vignes rouge, AC Côtes du Roussillon Villages, 2004. 13.5%

Calcareous and schist soils. Grenache noir 35%, vines 55yo; Carignan 40% vines 125 years old, Mourvèdre 15% vines 25 years old; Syrah 20%, vines 20 years old. Yields 20 hl/ha. 24 months maturity in all new oak barrique. 18,000 bottles pa.
Deep garnet hue, blackberry fruit and earth. Still young and tight, yet dense and rich. At least 5 years.

The 2003 is showing more complexity, with additional smoke on the nose. Still young but less firm tannins. Black berry, black cherry and very fresh and long. Less earthy. Perhaps not quite the potential of the 2004 but still needs another couple of years.

Muntada, AC Côtes du Roussillon Villages, 2001. 13.5%

Calcareous soils. Grenache noir 30%, vines 55yo; Carignan 40% vines 125 years old, Mourvèdre 15% vines 25 years old; Syrah 20%, vines 25 years old. 15 hl/ha, 20 months maturity – 70% in new oak barrique, 30% in older oak foudres. 8,000 bottles pa. Muntada in the Catalan dialect means Mountain.
Already open for 3 days – smell the garrigue! Complexity on the nose – a cloud of cherry, dried fruit, liquorice and herbs. The palate has a velveteen texture, cherry, berry and plum. Woodsmoke and perhaps the first hint of leather and balsam on a very satisfying length. Super balance and lovely now but clearly has places still to go over the years ahead. Decanting is essential.

The 2003 seems more opaque, certainly no heat problems, perhaps a smidgeon fuller and more forward at this stage. Big tannins need time to soften.

UK Stockists

In the UK I’ve found Domaine Gauby wines at D. Byrne, The Wine Society, Playford Ros, Raeburn, A&B Vintners and Uncorked.

Guide to UK prices

The wines look expensive if you think in terms of either Vin de Pays or Côtes du Roussillon but are actually very well priced when compared with the icon wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhône They may have humble appellations but these are the Premier and Grand Cru of Southern France.

Approximately £12 for the Calcinaires (white and red). £20 buys the Vieilles Vignes (white and red). Around £38 - £45 for Coume Gineste and Muntada.

Gérard et Ghislaine Gauby
Domaine Gauby
La Muntada
66600
Calce
France
+33 4 68 64 35 19