Domaine Michel Gros, Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy

I first encountered the wines of Domaine Michel Gros by attending a tasting of 14 vintages of Clos de Réas Premier Cru Monopole 1985-2000, held by Clive Coates MW back in 2003. Since then I’ve been entranced. This particular patch of ground makes, for me, quintessential red burgundy. Clos de Réas is Gros’ signature wine: terroir-driven Pinot Noir from Vosne-Romanée – perhaps the greatest wine village anywhere.

The history of the Gros dynasty is a complex one…

It all started with Alphonse Gros, born in the Haut-Côtes in 1802. He married into the Latour wine family and settled in Vosne-Romanée in 1830 and then began to create a wine estate. To cut a very long story short, four generations later the estate was held by Louis Gros, Michel’s grandfather. When Louis died in 1951 the estate was split between his four children, one of them being Michel’s father, Jean Gros. Then Jean divided his estate between his three children, when he retired in 1995.

The result is that of the sixth generation, Michel Gros and his sister Anne-Françoise Gros have their own separate Domaines, while Michel’s brother Bernard runs Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur. Meanwhile cousin Anne runs Domaine Anne Gros! This is hugely confusing but the result is that today there are four separate Gros estates in Burgundy.

The Domaine Michel Gros covers a total of 18 ha, mostly owned outright, though various parcels amounting to 3.5 ha are rented from the Ecard family. Pinot Noir is predominant and there are small amounts of Chardonnay and Aligoté. 85% of production is exported, key markets being Japan, the UK and the USA.

As is common in Burgundy, the estate’s individual holdings are small and fragmented, as follows:

1.20 Ha generic Bourgogne Rouge, at Vosne-Romanée (Luterière) and Nuits-Saint-Georges (Les Bouffales) respectively.

8.24 Ha Haut-Côtes de Nuits Rouge and 1.53 ha Haut-Côtes de Nuits Blanc, at Arcenant, 7km west of Nuits-Saint-Georges

0.92 Ha Vosne-Romanée

0.63 Ha Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées Premier Cru

2.12 Ha Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas Premier Cru Monopole

0.69 Ha Chambolle-Musigny

0.78 Ha Nuits-Saint-Georges

0.83 Ha Nuits-Saint-Georges Chaliots

0.31 Ha Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru (a blend of Vigneronds and Murgers)

0.12 Ha Morey St. Denis En la rue de Vergy (this is now under consideration for an upgrade to Premier Cru. Replanted in 1992, it’s next door to Grand Cru Clos de Lambrays)

0.20 Ha Clos Vougeot Grand Cru.

What is remarkable given the French inheritance laws is that the Gros family have always avoided dividing up Clos des Réas ever since it was purchased in 1860, preferring instead to re-organise their holdings between them on inheritance. It is therefore one of Burgundy’s few Monopoles (meaning that this Premier Cru it is entirely owned by one owner). The triangular-shaped Clos is enclosed by high walls that look ancient but are perhaps only 200 years old. Michel Gros thinks that the walls were built when the Monopole was first created in the nineteenth century rather than, as others have suggested, being enclosed by Monks. However, the origins of viticulture date back at least to Monastic times.

The Clos des Réas has a special microclimate. The walls protect the vines from wind and Michel notes that the grapes always ripen 2-3 days earlier than the adjoining parcel of Premier Cru Les Chaumes. The vines range from between 5 and 50 years old, a mix of clones and selection massale with vines only ever replaced individually. Within the Clos the slope inclines no more than 3-4%, so there is little water erosion. Michel believes that it is the rapid drainage of the soils that is the key to terroir here. The soil is very stony so the vines are never waterlogged and send their roots deep. In addition this also means the grapes do not swell with water quickly and there is also low soil humidity – both factors which reduce the incidence of rot.

Michel is a graduate of the Beaune lycée viticole (class of ‘75). He worked with his father from age 19 under his father’s Domaine name until Jean Gros’ retirement.

An affable, thoughtful man in his early fifties, he is quick to apologise for not being an “English student”. Fortunately for me his English is far better than he credits. Now in his early fifties, his sons are at school. Will they eventually take over? It’s too early to know.

Michel’s winegrowing philosophy is a simple one, “great wine is made from grapes that are ripe and clean”. Consequently no detail escapes his attention in the vineyard, his methods adapting each year according to vintage conditions– every vintage brings its own unique set of challenges.

As is common in Burgundy, the vines are planted at a high density, 10,000 per hectare. Michel prefers to prune them very short and leave few buds in order to deliberately limit yields rather than conduct a green harvest later in summer. Yields are typically around 30-35 hl/ha, depending on the location. He practices lutte raisonnée to minimise spraying against fungal diseases.

Michel’s sense is that global warming represents a significant challenge - harvests are definitely becoming earlier. In cool climate Burgundy this has so far worked to his advantage. There have been some excellent vintages in the last two decades, the most recent being 2005, and few poor ones - 1992 and perhaps 1994 being the last. But given that Pinot Noir is so sensitive this situation could easily become calamitous in future if the current pace of change continues. While 2003 was one of the earliest ever harvests, 2006 was the latest harvest in 15 years, extending into October.

And Biodynamics? Not here. Michel prefers “reason based on hard science” to unproven quasi-religious concepts. However, he is quick to praise those great Burgundian BD winegrowers but thinks that it is their increased vigilance in the vines that drives quality. There’s always more than one route to great wine and many of the Gros plots are so small that they would risk contamination by neighbours. However, I can’t help but wonder whether Clos des Réas would benefit from BD methods given that is larger and fully enclosed…

In the winery, Gros has a non-interventionist philosophy designed to get the best from each vintage and reveal terroir. After hand-picking and a triage to remove any rotten or blemished grapes the Côte reds are de-stemmed. There is no cold maceration of the grapes prior to fermentation because Gros is not looking for extraction and naked power. Selected yeasts are preferred here for more reliable fermentations and these are added after 1-2 days. Fermentation is in epoxy-lined cement tanks placed together to offer an element of natural temperature control, around 32 °C for 10-12 days, depending on the vintage. Pigeage (punching down the cap of skins) and pumping-over the juice (both twice per day) brings sufficient extraction. Chaptalisation, the scourge of Burgundy, is never used – the wines rely on entirely natural grape sugars. At the end of fermentation the temperature is briefly raised to 38 °C to fix colour. Then, after pressing, the wines spend a brief time in tank to settle naturally before cellaring in oak barrels. Gros has used a simple evaporative machine since 1996 to concentrate the must in wet harvest years with no adverse effects on the wines. The Chardonnay gets the usual Burgundian barrel fermentation and battonage in 20% new oak.

For maturation, the Côte reds usually get 18 months in oak, with between 30% and 100% new oak (always with a high toast) depending on the vineyard and the vintage. 80% of the barrels are sourced locally from Tonnellerie Rousseau Père et Fils at Couchey. Highly toasted barrels are very much a house tradition - it prevents green wood tannins from marking the wine and by the time the wines are ready to be bottled the wines are in balance. However, the time spent in barrel has reduced from the two years of his father’s day in order to preserve the fruit content of the wine. Only one racking is made, after the secondary malolactic fermentation and there is no filtering before bottling.

Tasting the 2006 vintage from Inox tank, May 2008

Tastings were made from Inox (stainless steel) tanks in the winery. All the wines were being stored in Inox after blending in April 2008. After four weeks to settle down they will be fined with egg white, (usually only 2 egg whites per barrel are necessary) in June and then bottled unfiltered in August 2008. While the move to Domaine bottling is a relatively recent phenomenon in Burgundy, the Gros family has the distinction of bottling their own wines since the 1850’s – one of the first burgundy estates to do so.

Because all the wines are essentially made in the same way the differences between them are because of terroir – that combination of soil, climate and aspect that clearly indicates a unique sense of place.

Haut-Côtes de Nuits 2006

This forms over 45% of the Domaine’s holdings and is therefore a key wine. This is a superb example of this lighter appellation and tremendous value. Revived by father Jean Gros from the 1970’s, the vines are between 20 and 40 years old. The geology here is exactly the same strata as found at Corton Grand Cru, but this being the Haut-Côtes, it is over 100 metres higher up than the vineyards at Vosne-Romanée. High training and trellising along the contours ensures maximum exposure to the sun, nevertheless the cooler climate here is clearly reflected in the style of the wine; there’s plenty of acidity and a light crimson colour. There is a fine violet perfume and crunchy red berry fruit. Plenty of tannins (unlike the other wines there is no de-stemming for this cuvée) but these are already very smooth and silky. Unlike the other wines, no new oak barrels are used with this wine as they would drown this lighter cuvée and the grape stalks give enough tannin. Instead, the barrels used were previously employed for the Premier cru and now impart no oak character. Drinking from 2010.

Vosne-Romanée 2006

The village wine is a blend from three separately vinified parcels; Aux Réas, Au dessus de la Rivière and La Colombière, all are found close to the village itself. There is a far deeper colour, much more concentration. The nose is relatively closed but shows red fruits and smoke. Good acidity, powerful, broad shoulders with 30% new oak used in this vintage. Silky palate and cherry fruit, the wine is always very open at this stage before shutting down for a few years after bottling. It will need 6-10 years to develop. From 2013.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 2006

This is from four separate parcels (Les Athées, Les Lavières, Les Bas de Combe and La Perrière Noblet) in the northern part of the appellation close to Vosne-Romanée– each has a different soil and aspect. More aromatic, with an herby nose - underbrush. Darker again, purple hued, with more power and opulence than the Vosne-Romanée and stunning wild cherry fruit. 40% new oak. Again needs 6-10 years. From 2013.

Nuits-Saint-Georges “Chailots” 2006

Not a Premier Cru but a single small “lieu-dit” in the southern part of Nuits vineyards kept separate from the wine above. This has very stony soil and one third is relatively young vines at 15 years old. This is much lighter and yet finer; the nose here offers a waft of violets amongst the smoky oak, (30% new). This wine is much more austere at this stage – more acidity than the regular NSG, with firmer grippy tannins and a minerality that the regular cuvée lacks. 8-10 years seems right. From 2015.

Chambolle-Musigny 2006

Again a village level wine, made from four separate parcels near Musigny. These are vinified separately then blended together. The largest is Argillères – yellow coloured limey soil often used for mortar. The three other sites are situated on a stony alluvial fan (Nazoires, Maladières and Mombies). Plenty of fruit complexity: fresh black cherry and violets with an animal note all bound together by acidity and tannin. There’s power here yet the wine appears almost weightless. 40% new oak. Showing great equilibrium but definitely one for the long haul, Gros feels this will peak in another 10-12 years. From 2016.

Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Clos de Réas Monopole 2006

What I came for! Big perfumes, all elegance and charm. Amazingly silky tannins, nothing hard here and already feels seamless although only blended two weeks ago. Animal scents on the nose, very pure red berry and cherry flavours and perfect balance. The 2006 is not as powerful as the 2005 but Gros feels the balance is classic due to the vintage conditions –late maturity of the grapes after long ripening and a very dry harvest built up complexity in the grapes while preserving essential acidity. 50% new oak. A very elegant and poised example that won’t peak before 10 years. Elegance and graceful femininity are, as always, the keys to this wine. Game birds make the ideal food match it seems to me. From 2016.

Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brûlées 2006

From vines sited next to the Richebourg Grand Cru, further up the slope than the Réas. The very stony and dry soils found here doubtless explaining the “burned” title. This is very different to Réas; it’s much fuller and swaps more intensity and concentration for a little less silk texture. Very smoky, but this isn’t just from the 50% new oak, there’s a natural component here too, undercut with a streak of stony minerality. Terroir-heaven. The power of this wine makes it more inclined to red meat rather than game birds. From 2016

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Grand Malpertuis 2006

A real treat! The Michel Gros plot is just 0.2 ha. Purchased in 1972, it is near the top of the Clos bordering Grand Echezeaux and was entirely replanted with clone 115. It borders Anne Gros’ parcel and makes just three barrels of wine. This plot was Michel’s 13th birthday present. He told me that at the time he would rather have been given a bicycle! Michel is therefore one of the smallest owners of this big and highly variable Grand Cru. He mentions a saying, “In Clos Vougeot, the wines from the top are reserved for the Popes. Those in the middle are for Bishops, while those from the bottom are just for Monks”. I feel lucky to be with the Popes!

This is a big wine that fully justifies the use of 100% new oak. A deep and brooding presence, all power and darker fruits, black cherry, berry and even damson. More alcohol and austerity. The oak toast and spices are evident at this stage but never overwhelm the fruit. Huge potential and a superb example of Vougeot. Possibly 12-15 years needed. From 2018.

Bottles tasted in the Gros cellars, May 2008

Nuits-Saint-Georges 2005 13%

Crimson colour, smoky intensity and perfect balance. Cinnamon spice and hints of toast with the wild cherries. Gros says this is starting to close down now and ready for a long sleep of 3-5 years before it will begin to awaken again.

Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Clos de Reas Monopole 2005 13%

Intense animal notes, bacon fat and smoke, silky mouth feel. Violets and cherry. Not yet closing down but it won’t be long now. Succulent and no doubting the greatness of this wine in this fine vintage. I wonder if this is a once-in-a-generation wine, potentially greater than the 1990 or 1999? “Only time will tell”, says Michel, “but all the signs are there”. Roll on 2015.

Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brûlées 2005 13%

A deeper crimson, even more smoky. Punchier and bigger tannins, damson and black cherry. Much bigger and more masculine than in 2006. A ying to the Réas yang. Very closed up, needed 10 minutes aeration to begin to reveal the class here. Excellent drinking from 2015.

Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Clos de Reas Monopole 2002 13%

Although still obviously young, there’s development here and decanting reveals its charms – this wine morphs in the glass. On opening animal notes dominate; palate is chewy and vanilla overlays hints of cherry and red berry. First impression is plenty of acidity, a platform on which the wine unfurls. After 10 minutes, the fruit starts to come through on the nose. In 30 minutes it’s finding its voice. But the best way of experiencing any bottle of Clos de Réas is over an evening with two glasses and a companion…

Coda: An evening with Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Clos de Reas Monopole 2002 13%

At only 5½ years old this needed decanting to get some aeration into it, but it’s now evolved out of its dumb phase and so while young can be thoroughly enjoyed. Ruby red with a pale crimson rim. Just hints of early development in colour but really just adolescent.

On first opening the nose exhibited dominant animal tones (wet fur and raw meat) but within 10 minutes or so the fruit appeared, shyly at first but then after 30 minutes it’s singing.

The palate is very juicy indeed, fresh mouth watering acidity (what Michel would call “vif”), in harmony and balance with those hallmark velvety tannins. Medium bodied, Réas is never a blockbuster, yet perfect balance. The supple palate has good intensity and concentration but is not overly-extracted, there’s nothing jammy or clumsy here, just well delineated layers of brambly hedgerows and red cherry with a darker violet and black fruit undercurrent. Some smoke wafts from the nose and reprises on the finish bound with spices, but you can’t feel the oak at all –it’s all so integrated.

This is a sensual sumptuous wine for contemplation, 10 minutes more and the nose and palate continue to evolve. Now there’s a very fragrant floral note on the nose akin to Roses and cake spices appear on the palate. Lift-off.

Finally after an hour the wine reaches its apogee, raspberry notes, just the hint of the sous-bois that will develop in bottle over time plus hints of aniseed and liquorice.
Femininity, finesse and focus.

My desert island wine, if I should ever be so lucky.

Domaine Michel Gros
7, rue des Communes
21700
Vosne-Romanée
France
00 33 (0) 3 80 61 04 69

 

For David and Lucy Bennett