WinePeak 2008

After a two-year break from WineLake, another meet up was long overdue. So we chose to stay at a Peak District Farmhouse near Dovedale for an autumnal weekend of conviviality – walking, warmth and of course, wine. Here are my notes from an (almost) annual camp.

Friday Evening

Menu: Leek and Potato soup, Boeuf Bourguignon with Root Mash, Tiramisu, Cheeses

English Sparkling Wine, Camel Valley Brut, 2006, Cornwall, England. 12%

Bought direct from the property near Padstow, this is made from 100%Seyval Blanc. Pale coloured, fresh, gentle rounded fruit. Not a yeasty style but nicely vibrant. On the wine list at Rick Stein’s Fish Restaurant and rightly so. A big hit with canapés too: Smoked Salmon, Morecambe Bay Prawns and Trout paté all go well. Seemed a good match to the Fireworks let off into a clear but cold autumn night and made up for a lack of sparklers!

Champagne Gobillard, Brut, Hautvillers, Champagne, France. NV. 12%

Very light pale yellow grower Champagne, 50% Chardonnay then equal parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Good yeast and biscuit nose. Some elegance here. Gentle autolytic character with citrus and pear fruit.

Touraine Sparkling wine, Thierry Tessier, Saint Roman Sur Cher, Loire, France. 2006. 12%

Trust the Loire to show some Fizz value! Apparently this is €5 cellar door! Crémant style, sherbet and honey nose (some Chenin churely?), a waxy mouthful, big fruit flavours, real interest. 25% Chardonnay, 25% Chenin Blanc and 50% Pinot Noir. Must pay them a visit!

Champagne Raymond Boulard, Petrea XCVII-MMII, Cauroy Les Hermonville, Champagne, France. 12%. Organic

One of Francis Boulard’s’ older Petrea’s, with wines from 1997 to 2002 aged in Solera. There are apples and oxidation developed with bottle age- an almost cidery character, individual, warming and rich. Those apples are pure Granny Smith’s. As it opens up there’s an anis note on the nose and cinder toffee and ginger spice on the finish. It’s deliciously different, barrel matured and far from over. I’d worry about that oxidative note in classically made Grande Marque Champagne, but not here – that’s the style. More please, FB! 60% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay.

Château Musar Blanc, Gaston Hochar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon. 2001. 12.5%

Seriously good value, just as nuts and just as good as the legendary red. Golden, shimmering colour and challenging Volatile Acidity. Dry, oxidised, even slightly rancio style, lanolin texture, finally some stone fruit pokes through. Salty. Beautifully Bizarre. All the reasons why you’d throw away a conventional white wine are here and it’s great, and very good with the soup. Contains Obaideh and Merwan - grapes I’ve never heard of anywhere else. Perhaps they are aliens. Somewhere out there. Talk turns to the merits of a Lebanese wine tasting. Gotta be done! And soon!

Vouvray Sec, Domaine des Aubuisieres, Bernard Fouquet. Loire, France. 1990. 13%

Very classic Vouvray, a divine nose of apricots in honey, nicely dry character yet so rich and three dimensional, very fresh acidity. It’s only 18 years old too - when might you grow up?

Château Palmer, AC Margaux, Medoc, Bordeaux, France. 1966. 12.5%?

Yes, Nineteen Sixty-Six. Bought at Auction, a potential bargain but a gamble. A high-fill bottle but with only a part of the original label. Offered as “believed Palmer”. However, the Label says Sichel and Sons, 1966, drawing the old cork reveals Chateau Palmer as the name, and the quality of the wine suggests that this is authentic Palmer. An extraordinary wine and extraordinary generosity to open this with friends. Like many old reds it’s gone very light coloured (browning with an almost an orange rim) and is soft and gentle. It could be some ancient creation from the Rhône, Bordeaux or Burgundy. There’s lots of perfume, still showing red berry fruits, but balsam and leather too and slight volatility. Game, red berry, cherry and spice haunt the palate. It takes a while to open up after decanting it off humungous sediment. There is silence, head shaking and people lost in thought. It’s not fragile, there’s plenty of life left and lots of finesse and enjoyment. Once it had really opened up a lick of pencil says this is top Bordeaux but it could be either a Médoc or a St. Emilion for me. Apparently, Cab Sauvignon 55%, Merlot 40% and Cab Franc 5% and one of the great 60’s vintages too. I had the Kinks’ Sunny Afternoon on my mind for the rest of the night.

Bourgogne Rouge, Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France. 2001. 12.5%

Well, something had to come next and whatever it was would probably suffer. A very good straight red burgundy from a highly respected Gevrey producer. Good texture for this level, juicy cherry fruit and still a bit tight. Came back to it a couple of hours later, much improved as it opened up. Organic, no?

Château Carras, AC Côtes de Meliton, Halkidiki, Greece. 1993. 13.5%

I’ve always wanted to try Carras, a blend of Cab’s Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot and Limnió (an indigenous red variety) trussed up for 18 months in French oak. Wasn’t this the first Greek wine to achieve world recognition? Hasn’t it got it’s very own appellation? Yes to both. There is a part of Greece then that is forever Bordeaux. Still plenty of dark fruits, slightly stewed, good complexity, tobacco and herbs. Very good with the beef.

Amethystos Cava, Domaine Constantin Lazaridis, Drama, Greece. 1995.13%

But this Greek wine has more excitement and feels much more youthful and energetic. Tell-tale Cabernet Sauvignon from the herbaceous and cassis nose, it turns out to be 100% Cab given 18 months in French oak. Smooth tannins, racier acidity and some torrefaction on the finish. Even better with beef. Very Good Indeed.

Finca Hispana Monte Aguarjo PX, Montilla-Moriles, Spain. 15%

Dark mahogany, greenish rim. Figgy nose, lighter and more drinkable than many PX’, especially good with Tiramisu as a dessert. Palate has figs again, a crème brulée texture and burnt toffee/coffee notes, really silky with a caramel finish. Little apricots are drowning in GTX. Help them, somebody.

Time for the cheeseboard: an ancient orange Mimolette, gorgeous Gruyere, Colston Basset Stilton seemingly better than ever, Ribblesdale and a Vacherin Mont d’Or...

Madeira, d’Oliverias Boal, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal. 1958. 20%

This was the wine of the night. Facts. 1958 means it was made 50 years ago, a very apt year for some at WinePeak! It’s only just been bottled and released, having sat in some old barrel in a Funchal Canteiro for most of its life. It has its credentials stencilled in white on a green bottle, the brown staining contents visibly lurking inside. 1958 was a poor vintage for most wine regions, but not in Madeira – oh contrare, this is one of their best vintages. The bottle lot number was 0847599. This wine is indestructible; some lucky soul could be drinking this centuries hence. This is the finest (and most expensive) Madeira I am ever likely to try. The now defunct Adegas do Torreão made this wine before selling out to d’Oliveirias. First thoughts: massive concentration and complexity. One sip lasts minutes; a small glass could conceivably last all night. Coffee, chocolate, roasted and toasted, but with a central spine of acidity, that balances things onto a knife-edge. Sweet yet finishes nearly dry, nervous and glorious. Polished mahogany with a yellow rim, rancio, volatile, walnuts and gunpowder – something smells like a spent firework about it (I had one to hand to compare). Nuts, cloves, dried fruits, the entire content of your baking cupboard. New things with every sip. Amazing.

Rivesaltes, VdN, EMB, Roussillon, France. 1956. 16%

Even older! Maccabeo, Malvasia, Grenache and Muscat Alexandra from a melange of glass demijohns and 100 year old oak casks, bottled in 2005. A floral nose, hints of rancio. Palate has an amazing depth of black fruits, with something leathery slithering away in the darkness.

Saturday afternoon tea

Back from an afternoon walk through Dovedale, cold yet sunny and clear, a cup of tea taken halfway around and many ducks fed by the river. Returning cold, yet bright-eyed. What to drink with a choice of lemon or chocolate cake? Tea? Coffee? No.

Jurançon, Domaine de Montesquiou, Borderave Montesquieu et Fils. South West France, 2006. 13.5%

Why there are two different spellings of Montesquiou/Montesquieu is quite beyond me. Perhaps it is a spelling mistake or perhaps it is profound. I don’t care when confronted with a warm hearth and the prospect of cake - though later in the night I lie awake in darkness with the question nagging me. This is excellent Jurançon, brassy colour. Slightly syrupy, a custardy-vanilla nose (Bird’s custard powder?). Very young and fresh acidity. Bitter orange palate, medium sweet and luscious lemon-cake heaven.

Quarts de Chaume, Côteaux du Layon, Joseph Renou, Loire, France. 1990. 14.5%

Now try this – new heights of lemon-cake-matching are scaled. Deep gleaming gold, a big quince nose. Silky and waxy, a savoury edge. Botrytis complexity shows as Dundee marmalade and marzipan. Lovely in every way from the sweet Loire master, a wine that continued to improve over two days.
There’s last night’s PX and Rivesaltes to go with Chocolate and Fleur de Sel cake too...

Saturday Evening

Menu: Halibut, Lamb Shanks, Pear Tart, Cheeses

Champagne Jacques Selosse, Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Brut, Avize, Champagne. NV, 12%. Biodynamic.

If I could only ever choose one fizz? Well, this would be on the shortlist for sure. Initial served too cold – this doesn’t really need much more than a 14 degree chill – white burgundy with bubbles. Disgorged on 10th December 2003. Burnished gold, gentle mousse, no aggression. Hazelnut, walnut and brioche nose, citrus palate turning to honey and hazelnut with ginger spices as it warmed. Just a hint of oak on the back palate now – the oak has just been integrated over time. Rewards leaving to mature in bottle, still has more potential. Superb.

Time for a Vintage Pairs (A/B) blind tasting before matching the wines to the menu:

A. Pouilly-Fuisse, Château Fuisse, Vielles Vignes. Mâconnais, Burgundy, France. 2001. 13%

Soft mid-yellow colour. Nose of baby-sick or wet wool, according to inclination. Broad palate and yet clean acids put me straight into the Mâconnais. Fat, young, figgy fruit, has further to go. Very good

B. Pouilly-Fuisse, Château Fuisse, les Brûlés. Mâconnais, Burgundy, France. 2002. 13%

Slightly darker colour, a similar nose, less pronounced. Higher acidity, bigger and riper perhaps. Very well balanced, young again. Excellent, come back again in 5-10 years.

A. Meursault, Patrick Javillier, Cuvée Tête de Murger, Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France. 2004. 13%

Patrick’s top Meursault. 0.62 hectares, 30 year old vines. This cuvée is a blend of two climats, Meursault ‘Les Casses-Têtes’ and Meursault ‘Les Murgers de Monthelie’. ‘Les Casses-Têtes’ is east facing and thin soils, bringing minerality. ‘Les Murgers’ is west facing on the Volnay side, offering balance and length. Put them together and bingo! Separately fermented, 100% in oak, 25% new barrels, where they stay for 11 months on the lees with lots of battonage. Then assemblage and allowed to knit together in larger oak vats for 6 months. Bottled without filtration. Decanted, already going a deeper yellow but this is just a baby! Toasty nose, vegetal aroma, bit of wet wool. Not ready, too young but minerals, toasty yet restrained oak, a big fat white burg. Come back in 10 years.

B. Meursault, Patrick Javillier, Cuvée Tête de Murger, Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France. 2000. 13%

The older version, same vines and same techniques, just about ready now and improving over the next 5-10 years. Now the wine has elegance to go with the fat. Big, bold and lovely. Concentration and balance, toasty but with less new oak showing than many Meursault’s – all to the good. Deepening colour, decanted off sediment. Less toast on nose, more that baby-sick tone. Premier Cru texture and chalky minerality from a village wine, with years of life ahead. A hint of the hazelnuts to come on the back palate. Halibut heaven. Javillier’s flagship Meursault though I wonder if Les Tillets is Javillier’s finest expression of Meursault.

A. Chassagne-Montrachet, Jean-Noel Gagnard, Premier Cru Caillerets, Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France. 2001. 13.5%.

Very pale. Definitely in Montrachet territory, definitely Premier Cru, such elegance and finesse. Prefer the mineral nose on this Chassagne to more vegetal Puligny below. Racy, elegant and feels very young, another decade perhaps before this is at peak. Big Treat.

B. Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive, Premier Cru Clavoillon, Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France. 2001. 13.5%. Biodynamic.

Pale, green hints. Slightly vegetal nose and a more forward palate, a little more buttery and evolved. I once read (Hanson, Loftus) that Puligny may age quicker than Chassagne because it has no cellars due to a high water table – could this be proof? Seems like a good working theory. Racy again, fleeting hint of hazelnut development and even more elegant on the palate. Premier Cru for sure. Mineral streak. Perhaps 10 years again. Even Bigger Treat.

A. Hermitage, La Chapelle, Jaboulet, Northern Rhône, France. 1988. 13%

A 2 hour decant. Light bricky red with a pale rim. Floral nose. Blackberry primary fruit still there, weight and power, pepper. Then the secondary development – meat, game. Must be a big ole Syrah. Fresh and vibrant and still capable of ageing further though pretty much perfect for me in this moment.
B. Hermitage, La Chapelle, Jaboulet, Northern Rhône, France. 1985. 13%

Also a 2 hour decant. Much browner, assuming older. Little primary fruit left, all savoury and gamey secondaries, leather. Very smooth but perhaps not as fine. Still a very enjoyable and delicious Syrah.

A. Shiraz, Cape Jaffa, La Lune, Mount Benson, Limestone Coast, South Australia. 2006. 14%. 2006. Biodynamic
Bottle 2,859 of 3,000. A big Syrah in style – think Hermitage but with the volume set at 11. Deep ruby coloured, the nose has floral hints and a touch of white pepper which overlay pure dark fruits. On the palate these resolve as plum, blackberry and black cherry wrapped up in a little vanilla oak and with an earthy and savoury/meaty undertow. A long length and some black pepper spice complement a great depth of fruit. Excellent balance and an absence of alcoholic heat. Great potential for development. A very interesting showing, especially after the La Chapelle!

B. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cape Jaffa, La Lune, Mount Benson, Limestone Coast, South Australia. 2006. 13%. Biodynamic.

Garnet coloured, bottle 1,276 of 3,000. Eucalypt/tobacco nose and cassis fruit though it is dominated by structure at this stage - still austere with tight tannins and a moderate 13% alcohol. Really came to life with the Lamb Shanks, a super food match, though ideally it wants a few more years cellaring.

Additional irresistible bottles

Rioja Gran Reserva, Vina Bosconia, Lopez de Heredia Tondonia, Haro, Rioja DOCa, Spain. 1981. 12.5%.

Great with Lamb Shanks, this is an extremely traditional Rioja, That US oak nose shows as coconut, well integrated with stewed strawberry fruit on the palate. Slightly volatile, big, rounded and polished - much still to give at 27 years old!

Rieslaner Auslese, Müller-Catoir, Mussbacher Eselsbaut, Pfalz, Germany. 1989. 11%. Organic.

This has gone almost a golden-orange colour, bracing acidity, must have dried out over time in terms of sweetness, Auslese level yet a dry finish now. Grapefruit, tangy, maybe something else lurking –quince? Very good with the Pear tart, especially the pastry. Don’t see much Rieslaner (Riesling x Sylvaner cross) – shame on this evidence from the wonderful Müller-Catoir.