A Tuscan Travelogue

In the UK, the wines of Tuscany are almost synonymous with Chianti and so by inference Sangiovese, their widely planted noble red grape. However Tuscany has many more wine regions and grape varieties. Add in huge variations in terrain, soils, altitude and also the attitude to winemaking – and Tuscany becomes a complex patchwork of wine styles and designations.

Tuscany was the region where Italy’s modern wine renaissance began and this day it remains the powerhouse of Italian wine excellence and innovation. Consequently, an invitation to visit Tuscany is an unmissable opportunity, bringing the chance to explore famous areas and contrast them with those that are new, emerging or simply little known. The focus was on those award winning wine producers that took part in the prestigious biannual 8th Selezione dei vini di Toscana wine competition held in Siena last year – so exposure to high quality wine was assured.

And there is so much more to Tuscany than just wine. Chianti-shire is of course the cradle of Renaissance art and literature. And with history and gastronomy at every turn it is an enduring touchstone for civilisation. Wintertime was a good time to visit vineyards and wineries and also experience the art and architecture without the hordes of summer tourists.

Though the red wines of Tuscany are her glory there are many wine styles to enjoy. The sheer brio of the best wines is accompanied by a vital sense of place, an unmistakeable territorio redolent of the stunning Tuscan countryside and the peerless medieval cities of Florence, Siena, Pisa and Lucca.

The traditional heartland

There’s no better place to begin exploring Tuscany than in the Chianti Classico wine zone. This is the landscape painted by Giotto and da Vinci that stretches along the winding road between Florence and Siena known as La Chiantigiana. Views are panoramic, with waves of hills topped by oak forest, castles and villages. All around are olive groves and vineyards in muted ochre colours, dotted with cypress, poplar and pine trees.

By tradition Chianti Classico DOCG is a red blend dominated by Sangiovese. Nowadays international as well as local indigenous grapes are allowable partners and there are examples of 100% Sangiovese too. The riserva are made from the best vintages or the best vineyards and designed for ageing, frequently in French oak barriques. Innovation is widespread, exemplified by a plethora of Toscana IGT “Supertuscan” wines. Producers originally used the freedom of the IGT designation to experiment with grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah that were banned by the Chianti Classico regulations. Paradoxically, many of these wines are now acceptable due to changes in the regulations but they remain as IGT. Three visits contrasted quite different approaches that show that Chianti Classico is far from being homogenous.

Castellare di Castellina, at Castellina. This featured a vertical tasting of six vintages (1999-2004) of I Sodi di San Niccolò IGT, a single vineyard Supertuscan. It’s made with a clone of Sangiovese piccolo known as Sangioveto blended with the local 15% Malvasia Nera. Two things stood out clearly, firstly the mark of vintage variation in Chianti, and secondly that a great producer makes great wine regardless of difficult vintage conditions. The 2001 is the very essence of Sangiovese from a great year, yet the 2002 from a challenging wet vintage and the 2003 from an intensely hot year are still superb wines.

Podere Terreno, at Volpaia. A small certified organic producer, they were one of the first to offer agriturismo, sowonderful hospitality is the order of the day. They grow a Sangiovese grosso clone called Brunello. Tasting here showed how Chianti Classico ages and how well it matches traditional Tuscan cuisine such as zuppa ribollita, (a bread-thickened bean soup). The traditionally made Riserva DOCG 2004 was particularly succulent and good value, while riserva wines were not made in 2002 in order to maintain their reputation for quality.

Fattoria di Fèlsina at Castelnuovo Berardenga is on the warmer southern boundary of the Chianti Classico zone. This is Gambero Rosso’s winery of the year 2009, a larger producer with hi-tech cellar facilities. Fèlsina make highly polished glossy wines with undoubted international appeal. Fontalloro IGT is their flagship, 100% Sangiovese made with grapes grown in two different zones of Chianti - Classico and the neighbouring Colli Senesi.

A traditional area for white wine is found to the west of Siena. Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG is set amidst rolling green hills that surround the unique medieval skyscraper town of San Gimignano. This was the very first Italian DOC in 1967 and became the second DOC promoted to DOCG in 1993 – and yet quality in the past has often been criticised. However it is clear that the best producers are creating Vernaccia of real quality and territorio in various styles.

Falchini was the first stop. Highlights are Ab Vinĕa Doni DOCG 2006, a Vernaccia leavened with 5% Chardonnay and fermented in barrel; and Vigna a Solatio DOCG 2007, unoaked Vernaccia with salty intensity. There was also an unusual metodo classico fizz made with 60% Vernaccia, 20% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Nero (the Pinot is sourced from Lombardy and so the wine is classified only as a humble Vino di Tavola).

Breathtaking balcony views accompanied an excellent tasting lunch hosted by the Consorzio San Gimignano in the town. The Vernaccia from Teruzzi & Puthod, Monte Oliveto and Strozzi were particularly memorable.

Although San Gimignano is a white wine area by tradition, red wine is gaining a deserved reputation too and can be found either as IGT Toscana, San Gimignano DOC or Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG. Very good examples are made by Falchini, for example Paretaio IGT, is made from 95% Sangiovese with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and Campora IGTis made from 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. The absence of any Sangiovese in this latter wine was a forerunner of things to come as we headed west out of the hills towards the coast.

The new lands

Tuscany’s modern wine revolution may have started in Chianti Classico but it soon spread to the Etruscan coast, a once pestilential marshland with no fine winemaking tradition. This small region is now simply buzzing with ideas, ambition – and some of the most famous Supertuscans of all. Welcome then to the New World of the Bolgheri and northern Maremma.

The exceptional and internationally acclaimed vineyards are sited just inland where the hills rear up magnificently from the coast. French grape varieties, principally from Bordeaux, have been found to be ideally suited to the warmer maritime climate. The wines therefore take their principle inspiration from the Mèdoc and when Sangiovese appears it is usually in a supporting role.

It all started with Sassicaia in the late 1960’s. This is one of Italy’s finest (and most expensive) wines, created from 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Others followed suit using the same Bordeaux model. Ornellaia and Masseto come from nearby Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, while Guado al Tasso and Ca’Marcanda were established only during the last two decades. These aristocrats are not alone; there are now 51 Bolgheri wineries sharing just 2,200 hectares of vines.

The winery visits made in this region featured two new wave producers that make superb wines using contrasting philosophies.

Castello del Terriccio is situated just north of the Bolgheri proper, a manicured horse breeding estate with 130 hectares of vines where the driveway is over four kilometres long! The wines were established in the 1990’s and feature meticulous attention to detail and nothing seems left to chance. Lupicaia IGT is a Bordeaux blend to rival Sassicaia, while Castello del Terriccio IGT is predominantly Syrah with Petit Verdot. Tassinaia IGT is one third Sangiovese with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. All are precision wines where the luxurious content is the equal of effortless designer style.

Grattamacco isnear Castagneto Carducci in the Bolgheri, a small certified organic producer. The winery buildings blend into a place of outstanding natural beauty where the vineyards seem to be extensions of vast ancient forests. The philosophy here is to be as natural and hands-off as possible at every stage in the vineyard and the winery. Grattamacco Bolgheri Vermentino IGT is their very elegant white, but Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore Rosso IGT is simply stunning, a blend of 65% Cabernet with 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese.

Two showcase wine tastings then gave further insight into these coastal wines. The first of these featured upcoming Bolgheri producers gathered at the hilltop town of Castagneto Carducci. The second was held in Suvereto, the epicentre of a young and upcoming region 20 km further south known as the Val di Cornia. Both tastings featured wineries from the Selezione dei vini di Toscana and naturally there was an opportunity to meet the winemakers and try the local cuisine.

The Bolgheri tasting predominantly featured red Bordeaux blends from nine different producers in the DOC, with vintages ranging from 2003 to 2007. This was a very high quality turn out with many skilfully made wines. The small Fornacelle estate deserved particular praise. They make an outstanding varietal Cabernet Franc called Foglio38 IGT. This needed decanting but proved to be perfect with a stunning dish of Pappardelle al cinghiale (wild Boar pasta) – this partnership was a highlight of the entire trip. Meanwhile, their Zizzolo Bolgheri Rosso DOC, a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon followed closely behind.

The Val di Cornia tasting made for an intriguing contrast. This young DOC region of just 800 hectares is still establishing itself but there is no shortage of ambition as it looks to replicate the success of Bolgheri. This time three winemakers (Rubbia al Colle, Bulichella and Gualdo del Re) each presented a pair of DOC wines, the first a Sangiovese and the second a Bordeaux style. The Sangiovese wines were particularly enjoyable, piccolo clones sourced from Chianti Classico. The warmer climate at Suvereto meant these were beefier, denser wines that were excellent with parmesan shavings. The Bordeaux wines meanwhile had a more international style, particularly when compared to their Bolgheri neighbours.

Old regions, new discoveries

Time to head north to the splendid town of Lucca, a jewel set at the base of jagged mountains. The town is sometimes overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbours, but it is an essential visit. This is the birthplace of Puccini, with medieval buildings set down on a Roman street plan. It is completely surrounded by 4 km of perfectly preserved city walls. Indeed, these boulevard-wide ramparts provide the ideal viewing platform to see the city within and hum Nessun Dorma while strolling along in the sunshine. Looking outward, two tiny enclaves arc around the north side of the town. These are the Colline Lucchesi and Montecarlo DOC vineyards, separated from each other only by the wide valley of river Sérchio. Naturally they have much in common, being south facing suntraps on mountain hillsides that offer protection from the cold north wind.

Both regions have a wine making history dating back to the Romans and today there are around 50 producers, traditionally making wines from red Sangiovese and neutral white Trebbiano. While the DOC rules differ slightly from one another, a vast range of grapes are allowed and there is also the inevitable range of IGT’s. White grapes planted include Grechetto, Malvasia, Vermentino, Trebbiano, Roussanne, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio. The reds are even more diverse: Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Aleatico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Nero and Syrah. This broad vinous palette effectively means that anything goes!

The first visit was to Tenuta di Valgiano in the Colline Lucchesi. This is a sixteenth century wine estate with vineyards farmed biodynamically since 2002. The result is a range of exciting hand-crafted red and white wines that are a true expression of Lucca. Their top red Colline Lucchesi Rosso DOC is a blend of old vine Sangiovese with 20% Syrah and 20% Merlot. Unusually, it was possible to compare tank samples from the still maturing 2008 and 2007 vintages with the currently released 2006 in bottle which gave insight into how the wine develops. Regardless of youth this is a silky and sensual wine that burgundy lovers would adore. Their second red, Palestorti Rosso DOC 2006 is a similar blend, this time 70% Sangiovese with equal parts Syrah and Merlot. It has all the same hallmarks on a slightly smaller scale, but is no less delicious. The wines are a powerful advertisement for naturally made wines.

An evening tasting and dinner at Borgo La Torre in Montecarlo featured diverse wines from four of the very best Montecarlo producerstaking part inthe Selezione dei vini di Toscana. These were Montechiari, Fattoria la Torre, Carmignani and Buonamico. What a talented bunch they are! The following wines merit special mention. Montechiari Donna Catherina IGT is a rare sparking rosato made from Pino Nero; Fattoria del Torre make Esse IGT and Stringaio IGT. Both are biodynamic, the first pure Syrah, the second a blend of Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Carmignani’s Montecarlo Bianco DOC somehow crams Trebbiano, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Vermentino, Sauvignon, Semillon and Roussanne into one bottle while Theorama IGT is their Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese blend; Buonamico Vasario IGTis barrique fermented Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon. However, my personal highlight was Buonamico’s Il Fortino IGT, their old-vine Syrah, excellent with pecorino cheese.

Syrah seems to be both particularly suited to this area and have a distinct identity. Given the growing interest in Syrah globally, perhaps this grape could provide a springboard to the wider recognition that Montecarlo deserves. Meanwhile, these local wines remain Lucca’s best-kept secret.

Finally, many more wines were tasted from other Tuscan regions to compensate for the insufficient time to visit them. These included Brunello and Montepulciano, Carmignano, Morellino di Scansano, Montecucco and the various Chianti zones that surround Classico Classico. Tuscan sweet wines and the unique Vin Santo were not overlooked either, providing dessert styles for puddings and cheese. There is space here to mention just one: Aleatico dell’Elba 2005 DOC, by Aquabona, a sweet red dessert wine from the island of Napoleon’s exile that is a chocolatiers dream.

Conclusions

Tuscany is a land of extraordinary beauty and remarkable contrasts. Sangiovese remains Tuscany’s glorious beating heart, comes in many guises and can be called Prugnolo, Sangioveto, Morellino, Tignolo, Uva Canina and more besides. But Tuscany’s grape varieties, blends, styles and traditions mean great diversity too.

Vintage variation is also important. In this decade 2001, 2004 and 2006 are especially good years. But don’t overlook 2003, 2005 and even 2002 given that a great wine maker will still make fine wine in the most challenging vintages.

Whether the winemakers are highly prestigious or relatively obscure, those visited share and communicate common virtues – passion, dedication and a sense of place. It is also heartening to find organic and biodynamic viticulture and a growing ecological commitment.

Tuscan wines really shine with food; particularly those local specialities so expertly served at the enoteca and ristorante visited that deserve an article all to themselves.

Finally, for Art lovers, Tuscany is full of marvellous Renaissance frescoes, triptychs and canvasses. Yet there is also an Uffizi’s worth of art contained in Tuscany’s wine bottles.

Finally, I remain indebted to Filippo Magnani, Fijev, the Regione Toscana, the Selezione dei vini di Toscana competitionand of course all of the producers that took part. To offer such hospitality and insight is a great gift, and it was an honour to be invited on this impeccably organised and memorable trip. Final thanks are reserved for those fine companions that journeyed to Tuscany from all corners of Europe – buon viaggio!

© Paul Howard, February 2009