Anthony’s, Leeds - Paul Howard visits Anthony’s and matches the food menu with beer

Since opening 18 months ago it has garnered a plethora of accolades and awards. Anthony James Flinn, only 25, is an exceptionally talented Chef. His CV includes stints at Michelin starred restaurants such as Lords of the Manor and Abak. Most famously he worked at the legendary El Bulli in Catalonia, run by the master of molecular gastronomy, Ferrán Adrià.

Anthony is ably supported by an excellent family team. His father (Anthony senior) masterminds the business and was our genial host and knowledgeable Sommelier during our evening visit. Younger sister Holly runs front of house with quiet authority while Olga Garcia (partner and co-veteran of El Bulli) discreetly controls the dining room with unfussy service with a smile.

In the ground floor bar we sank into deep leather sofas while sipping an extraordinary beer as the perfect aperitif. Deus Champagne Beer arrived in a Dom Perignon style bottle and was served in flutes! Made using the genuine champagne method, it has a delicacy and vivacity that belies its heady strength.

Meanwhile, Anthony senior patiently explained the menu items. There are four choices for each course, plus amuses bouches before each. The small menu allows for the highest standards of ingredients and presentation. Variety and a sense of adventure are maintained by regularly introducing new dishes.

What to drink? A quality wine list of 130 bins, biased towards France and Italy, includes half bottles and wine by the glass. However, seduced by the Deus we were keen to explore the beer list. Encouraged to do so by Anthony we followed his recommendations and the result was a revelation.

The spacious dining room is downstairs in the basement and has just 32 covers. It’s tastefully kitted out in minimalist style, with dark wood flooring, modern artwork and lighting that dims as the evening progresses. Tableware exudes quality. Fine Egyptian cotton is set with large square white plates and accompanying Riedel glassware. The unpretentious relaxed atmosphere allows for real enjoyment and the ability to savour every combination of taste and texture on offer. This is not a place to rush.

For starter I had braised Pig’s Cheek, Maws and Lung, (£8.50) stuffed with pomme puree. It sounded bizarre but this Spanish dish has a superb texture, the meat so tender it just melted in the mouth. As a total contrast my partner had Anthony’s signature dish, Risotto of White Onion (£7.25). The risotto is topped with parmesan foam and a hint of espresso and is quite simply ethereal. We shared a glass of deliciously elegant Karmeliet Tripel, the pronounced vanilla and citrus flavours coping easily with both dishes. Looking back, it was our favourite beer of the night and a good all-rounder. A delicious miniature loaf of bread helped stem the flow of alcohol…

The Main courses were artfully presented and delicious. The Salt Cod (£22.95) came with a chicken jus, morels, chicken hearts and skin. This powerful salty dish demanded an equally powerful beer and was perfectly matched by Duvel Golden Ale, a hoppy Belgian beer with a thick creamy head and flavours of Poire William. The Roast Monkfish (£23.50) was also muscular, served with clusters of crab salad and avocado. The bitter finish of Schneider Weiss, an amber coloured German wheat beer worked a treat with it.

Getting full, we decided to share a “Journey of Chocolate” for dessert (£12.95). Easily enough for two, we lingered over four different chocolate morsels, all gorgeous.

Two Liefmans Belgian Fruit beers; a Frambozen (sweet and sour raspberries) and a Kriek (sharp cherries), were a perfect match for chocolate. Which was better? The Frambozen won on points with the milk chocolate almond ice-lolly and then the orange chocolate pudding with coffee jelly top. However, the Kriek was just ahead with the black chocolate cake plus the dark chocolate sponge. The beer ensured the dessert was the star of the show.

Retiring back upstairs to the bar area, the evening was rounded off with Coffee, Petit Fours and a glass of Talisker for a nightcap.

Refreshingly, there’s no fine dining snobbery at Anthony’s. The beer list has been chosen with care and each one acts as a foil for each course, correctly served in dedicated glassware.

There is culinary ambition, creativity and great value for around £40 per head (excluding drinks). Try the beers on offer with the food; Anthony’s proves they belong on any fine dining menu.

A version of this article first appeared in Fine Expressions Magazine, Issue 2 August/September 2005. www.fineexpressions.co.uk