Samphire

We consider ourselves fortunate to have a Fishmonger that turns up every week at our local market. At this time of year he upholds the ancient tradition of including a couple of handfuls of bright green samphire with the fish purchased (in our most recent case Dover Sole). I hadn't seen samphire since buying fish in Suffolk many years ago. Samphire grows naturally in muddy salt-water marshes and estuaries around British coasts and is eaten as a seasonal delicacy from June to September.

But what is samphire? Strictly, this is Marsh Samphire, also known as glasswort because it was essential to medieval glass making. Samphire is a corruption of the French Saint Pierre and even gets an honourable mention in Shakespeare's King Lear.

It's not seaweed. Visually, it looks like a cross between a short succulent and thinly stemmed and jointed asparagus. When eaten it has a nice green crunchy bite and a salty iodine-like tang redolent of its environment. It has a certain asparagus like delicacy too.

These days I'm told it's an über-trendy veggie offered at ludicrous prices in top restaurants. But given that samphire grows right around the UK coast you can forage your own for free at muddy low tide. Just cut the green tops off and leave the root to regenerate - that's of course if you don't have access to a great fishmonger! It'll keep for up to five days in a fridge before it starts to wilt, but ideally should be eaten when as fresh as possible.

Samphire is a great match with any sea fish, all it takes to cook it is to boil or preferably steam it for 3-4 minutes until just tender and then serve with hollandaise sauce or vinaigrette á la asparagus. Alternatively, add it to pasta with a few parmesan shavings. Very young samphire that isn't too salty can even be added raw to salads.

There are plenty of recipes available, including pickling - although this latter technique is really for the unrelated Rock Samphire which grows on cliffs and is more of an acquired taste.

Here's an easy recipe for samphire that can be eaten on its own or as a side dish:

Samphire with Shallots and Lardons

A couple of handfuls of Samphire will feed four, no need to worry unduly about exact measurements. Don't be tempted to add any salt as there's plenty enough salty flavour from the samphire.

Fry some bacon lardoons until just brown in a large frying pan. Then remove them for later. Now chop some shallots (or an onion will do if none to hand) and sweat them in the oil left from the lardons until soft. Now add the samphire and toss for just 2-3 minutes until tender - there should still be some bite left in them when ready. Add plenty of black pepper and finally combine with the lardons.

As a variation, omit the lardons and use clarified butter and a few capers and croutons.

Serve this dish immediately with your chosen fish. Dover sole was my fish of choice but this is good with a wide range of fish including oily species like sardines and mackerel.

A robust but crisp aromatic white wine like a Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc will then be all you need for a deliciously different meal.

However you decide to eat it, do seek samphire out - it is such a great example of seasonal cuisine from these Isles.