JosMeyer et Fils, Wintzenheim, Alsace, France

JosMeyer is easily found in Wintzenheim, it’s on the main street and approached via a lovely cobbled courtyard that features all the usual hallmarks of Alsace. There are half-timbered buildings featuring ancient oak beams, window boxes full of Pelargonium and red Roses climbing around doorways. Birdsong surrounds us and Bees buzz. Looking up, the sky is a deep azure and without a cloud. The elaborate ironwork sign featuring grapes and vignerons marks the entrance.

Wintzenheim is a small village in the heart of Alsace, just west of Colmar. Nestling in the foothills of the Vosges, the rain shadow created by these mountains means this area is one of the sunniest and driest places in France. Biodynamic and organic wine growing is therefore both feasible and relatively common. Wintzenheim is sandwiched between two large Grand Cru vineyards; Brand is to the north near the neighbouring village of Turckheim, while Hengst is south towards Wettolsheim. There is a feeling here of being surrounded by a patchwork quilt of fields, soils, slopes and vines.

The JosMeyer estate was founded 1854 by Aloyse Meyer and remains family run. Jean Meyer took over in 1966. Now in his early 60’s he has the appearance of a much younger man. He joined us for the latter part of our visit and two remarks he made struck me. While talking about perfectionist winemaking he said, “I make wine with humility and pleasure” and “always remember first to please yourself in order to please others”. This sums up his thoughtful and artistic manner.

Christophe Ehrhart joined JosMeyer in 1995. He is now vine grower and Managing Director. If you are sceptical about biodynamics then Christophe’s highly articulate explanations will soon convince. Both men are sure that BD methods are responsible for the significant and consistent quality improvements at this estate during the last decade and that further improvements are possible.

All JosMeyer wines are deliberately made to accompany food. The house style is to vinify to dryness. They therefore resist the upward spiral of ever-increasing ripeness that is becoming commonplace in Alsace; increased alcohol levels and/or residual sugar are spoiling some Alsace wines. At JosMeyer only minimal levels of residual sugar are left for balance and alcohol levels are deliberately restrained. JosMeyer wines are about soaring aromas, freshness, balance, elegance and subtlety. Given that Alsace wine labelling gives little clue to the final sweetness of the wine then JosMeyer wines are reliably dry.

Christophe adds, “You must look elsewhere for those over-ripe extrovert wines that rely on immediate impact but that rapidly become boring”.

Biodynamic conversion commenced in 1999. The first fully biodynamic vintage was in 2001 and official certification is given by Biodyvin. Because the vineyards were always farmed by close to organic methods then biodynamic conversion here was a matter of evolution rather than revolution. As you would expect there is great attention to detail to ensuresustainability and respect for the environment - even the wooden storage palettes are fashioned from untreated timber.

JosMeyer make enough horn manure (BD 500) to share between ten other estates. They also use BD 501 horn silica, plus BD 508 horsetail and BD 504 nettle. As usual these are applied in very dilute quantities: 100g diluted in 200 litres of water will treat 1 ha – the idea is to stimulate the life of the soil, not feed the vine. Consequently, copper and sulphur treatments used to combat fungal diseases are reduced - with biodynamics, JosMeyer are able to use less than 50% of the allowable dose.

JosMeyer have 25ha of vineyard in total, all within 3km. This includes just 5 ha of the much divided Brand and Hengst Grand Cru.

Brand has a quality reputation extending back to the middle-ages. A steep south facing cirque at about 340m altitude, it’s characterised by free draining and acidic sandy soils derived from granite. Hengst meanwhile can trace its origins at least as far back to the ninth century. It is a large wind sheltered slope rising to 360m, with marl soils derived from underlying limestone. Hengst means “Stud Horse” (i.e. Stallion) in the local dialect as it has a reputation for powerful, muscular wines.

The JosMeyer wine range is typically wide given the generous vinous palette of Alsace. Their holdings yield 27% Riesling, 25% Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois, 21% Pinot Gris and 19% Gewurztraminer. In addition to these four grapes they also have small quantities Muscat (3%), Chasselas and Sylvaner (3%) and Pinot Noir (2%).

Yields are very low compared to the Alsacien average to pursue quality over quantity. The maximum yield allowed is 80 hl/ha + derogation but JosMeyer are generally 55-60hl/ha, but even lower for the Grand Cru at 40-45 hl/ha.

Vine propagation is by cuttings taken from their best vines (sélection massale) rather than clones and vines under 5-8 years old are excluded. The vines are densely planted to encourage deep rooting and extract varietal character, especially necessary for Pinot Gris.

Other practices designed to maximise quality include hand-harvesting and the use a table de tri to reject imperfect grapes. There is no de-stemming, the gentlest pneumatic pressing is used and subsequent fermentation is only with naturally occurring wild yeasts. As you would expect, there’s never any chaptalisation required - the addition of artificial sugar to the grape juice at fermentation is rightly an anathema.

Fermentation takes place in 1,200 litre open oak vats that have been used since 1895. Being so old, the wood is completely inert and imparts no flavour. There are also 6,000 litre ceramic vats and modern temperature controlled stainless steel. Slow, cool fermentations preserve aromas and some Carbon Dioxide is also retained in the wine as an anti-oxidant. This means that JosMeyer use even less Sulphur Dioxide preservative.

The secondary (Malolactic) fermentation is usually blocked. A naturally occurring ‘malo’ can be an uncertain event in Alsace and the preservation of fresh malic acid is part of the JosMeyer style and also enables the top wines to develop in bottle over many years.

Jean Mayer also has a willingness to blend if it benefits the final wine. And not just varieties are blended either - the Hengst and Brand Grand Cru Pinot Gris was blended together in 2000 to create ‘H&B’. Heresy! Jean Meyer felt that this created a far better wine in that particular vintage even though by doing so the Grand Cru designation was surrendered.

As is common in Alsace no wood is used in maturation. The wines are given a very fine filtering to leave them bright before bottling in traditional flûtes. Less traditional are the striking labels that reflect Jean Meyer’s love of Modern Art. There is also a pragmatic use of closures; cork is used for those wines designed for ageing in bottle, while screw caps are used to ensure freshness for the wines designed for earlier drinking. The wines are arranged in clear quality/price levels:

• Generic – entry level varietal wines or blends for early drinking. The blends are what Alsaciens once called Edelzwicker before that description became devalued;

• Artists’ Range – classic varietal expression based on aromatic and fruit purity with aging potential;

• Prestige Range – terroir classics that need bottle age, perhaps 5 years;

• Grand Cru – terroir giants that can be delicious in youth but demand at least 10 years to reveal all their subtle nuances and complexity;

• Vins d’Exception – small quantities of sweet late harvest wines - Vendange Tardive (VT) or Sélection des Grains Nobles (SGN) - made if vintage conditions permit.

 

JosMeyer Contact Details

JosMeyer et Fils SA
76, rue Clémenceau
68920
Wintzenheim
France
www.JosMeyer.com
Tel. +33 3 89 27 91 90

UK importers are Pol Roger.

 

Tasting Notes

Most of the wines below were tasted at JosMeyer by Andy Leslie (AL) and Paul Howard (PCH). We were honoured to be tutored by Christophe Ehrhart and latterly Jean Meyer on a warm spring morning. The notes for each wine are presented independently and further notes from other recent JosMeyer encounters have been included. UK Stockists and prices are also given where known.

Naturally the conversation included suggestions for food pairing. This is the land of copious helpings of Pig and Cabbage. Choucroute Garni, sausages, pork and bacon are all delicious with Alsace Riesling, as is goose. Onion tart and risotto is superb with Pinot’s Blanc, Gris and Auxerrois, while Gewurztraminer is brilliant with the local Munster cheese. The usual fish and seafood matches are all possibilities and then there's oriental cuisine; Alsacien wines combine well with subtle Thai or sushi and sashimi flavours. Specific suggestions are made with each of the tasting notes.

Pinot Blanc, ‘Mise de Printemps’ 2006. 12.5%

Artists’ series. The first wine to be made each year. Sandy soils, actually 20% Pinot Blanc and 80% of the closely related Pinot Auxerrois. Pale, fresh and floral – white blossom. Very dry with good refreshing acidity underpinned by a streak of minerality, no spice development yet. Excellent length and balance. The 2005 has developed a spicier finish and a 2006 cask sample confirmed these impressions at aPol Roger tasting. Simple dishes like Asparagus or vegetable dips.

£9.85 at Haynes, Hanson and Clark. (PCH)

Pinot Blanc ‘Les Lutins’ 2004. 12.5%

Prestige series. From older vines over 35 years old at nearby Herrenweg – much more clay in these soils. Bigger and more intense nose, peachy. Very pure greengage fruit, hint of residual sugar, no more than that. Real palate weight and intensity, broad body and a spice finish. Pinot Blanc is so under rated in my view. White meat and Quiches. Christophe also suggested eggs – I can see this working well with an omelette.

£13.85 at www.everywine.co.uk. (PCH)

‘Rich and honey quality to the nose with nice minerality. Lovely lively acidity is the main feature of the mouthfeel, but there’s a little rich fruit too – dry to all intents and purposes, with just a lick of residual sugar at the end’. (AL)

Pinot Auxerrois ‘H’ Vieilles Vignes 2004.13%

Grown on the Hengst Grand Cru but can’t officially be a Grand Cru as the Auxerrois grape isn’t allowed… hence ‘H’ for Hengst! All the terroir of Hengst is here: a pale glinting gold, flecks of green. Marzipan/almonds on the nose. A very powerfully rich palate, bone dry but lifted by refreshing acidity and chalky minerality underpins grapefruit and apple flavours. Watch out white burgundy! Lovely now but try not to touch before 2010 and always decant it. Grand Cru quality for sure. Also tasted at the Return to Terroir Tasting in London. The 2001 tried at a Pol Roger tasting shows more development and is now probably at peak: fat in the mouth and a lovely silken texture with apricot and peach. Bargain!

The Wine Society, £14.95. (PCH)

‘This Pinot Auxerrois is from a plot on the Grand Cru Hengst planted in 1959. It can’t take the GC label, as it’s not a GC grape. Hey-ho. Nose has grapefruit, tangy tangerine and other citrus fruits but with serious dash of minerality too. In the mouth this is amazingly rich and mouth filling but with characteristic straightforward acidity and slatey minerality. Easily the best Pinot Auxerrois I’ve ever had’. (AL)

Riesling ‘Le Kottabe’ 2005. 12%

Artists’ range. Green apple nose, fleeting traces of petrol. Very youthful so little complexity, this wine is more fruit driven with a nice lime and green apple character – but it feels very slim, precise and focused and has excellent length – fine tolerance engineering would be a good analogy. Leave 2/3 years. Sashimi heaven. Also tasted at Pol Roger.

£12.95 at Haynes, Hanson and Clark and Waitrose. (PCH)

‘Very precise and clean nose of lemon and pebbles. Pure and dry and mineral in the mouth – sleek and clean’. (AL)

Riesling ‘Les Pierrets’ 2004 12.5%

Prestige range; and a big step-up in quality. Older vines, the majority from the north face of Hengst. Very young and tightly wound, 2010 at the earliest, but all the right signs are there; pale lime green, gentle petrol and focus. This is much bigger, broader and more powerful; Christophe Ehrhart described the wine as having “shoulders”. Big flinty minerality on the palate, stone fruit cocktail. Will be splendid; be in no doubt and terrific value. Fish, sushi. Also tasted at the Return to Terroir Tasting in London. (PCH)

‘This has a sherbety lemon character overlaying a citrus minerality and brioche richness, in the mouth there is power but with a taut zesty acidity. Very good’. (AL)

The 2001 on show at a Pol Roger tasting had superb honeyed fruit, long length, minerality and rapier acidity, showing the benefit of bottle age.

‘Nose has a hint of minerally petrol and a touch of tropical fruit. Palate has heaps of chewy acidity, and is lip-smacking, long and lovely’. (AL)

The 1999 has deepened in colour to a golden hue, is very dry and less complex and probably at peak, nicely balanced with subtle tones and a hint of orange peel amid the petrol and stoniness – very good with home-made crab fishcakes, I assure you.

Waitrose, £13.99. (PCH)

Riesling Grand Cru Brand 2004. 13%

Ying – the rush of Life. Old vines and sandy soils, an outstanding Grand Cru site. Acidity like a knife, precise and pure fruit, huge length. Tight and austere; an intellectual wine needing bottle age. 2010 earliest for broaching, 2015 probably better. The 2002 is around £26.00 at Gauntleys. (PCH)

‘Lovely clean and pure nose with wonderful delineation of zippy zest and flinty notes. This has a piercing acidity in the mouth and an interesting salty tang. It’s really long and quite intensely flavoured without being overpowering. Great, but needs time’. (AL).

Riesling Grand Cru Hengst 2004. 12%

Yang – the power of Nature. First impression is that this is softer textured, then the acidity hits – a function of the chalky soils of Hengst, JosMeyer’s other outstanding Grand Cru site. Slightly darker colour, power and ‘shoulder’, more open than the Brand and delicious drinking now, lovely stone fruit/apricot flavour. Resist all temptation to drink before 2010 and decant it. Will do well with Lobster or Comte cheese. (PCH).

‘The Hengst is a touch richer than the Brand on the nose. The palate is complex and long with just a touch of tropical fruit and less domineering acidity. More forward now, but will take age well too, I suspect. Excellent’. (AL).

The 2000 (12.5%) was a real standout at a Pol Roger tasting, just starting to benefit from bottle age; a wet stones nose and a whiff of petrol then an explosive palate – rich rewarding and very pure with a melange of spices on the finish. (PCH)

A 1997 decanted and tried recently was simply stunning with a fresh Crab, all mineral focus and almost ethereal on the nose. Strong yet delicate – a prima ballerina of a wine. £24.95 at Imbibros. (PCH)

Riesling Grand Cru Hengst 2003. 12.5%

Compare this 2003 to the vintages above. Deeper and more open – that hot vintage makes this atypical – but still there are nice surprises in store. Less acidity, but still enough to carry the wine. Not classic in the way the 2004 or 1997 are. Christophe Ehrhart feels that that their BD vines coped better with heat stress and so still produced grapes that could make balanced wines, in contrast to the large crops of over-ripe flavourless grapes from those that used chemical treatments. There’s brioche or toast on the nose. More open, with stone fruit and herb reminders – thyme and rosemary. Will probably age quicker. Still a delicious experience. Roast Chicken and herbs would be a fine pairing. (PCH)

‘How did JosMeyer do in the dread hot year? Pretty good it seems. This wine is only 12.5% alcohol. It’s clearly atypical for the Cru, with a nonetheless very appealing rich brioche and dried herb nose. Palate has a touch of glycerine and just enough acidity. Amazingly good in the context of the year. Drink young’. (AL)

Riesling Grand Cru Hengst 2002. 12.5%

‘Complex mineral and floral nose that is delightfully elegant. Hints of lime and petrol but oh-so-poised and balanced, subtle and beguiling. In the mouth this is dry and mineral but with depth and complexity. It’s long and has lovely balance. Great now, but I guess it will go another 10 or 20 years’. (AL)

Pinot Gris, ‘Le Fromenteau’ 2005. 13%

Artists’ series. A perennial favourite of mine from the JosMeyer range, Fromenteau was the dialect name for Pinot Gris in the middle Ages. A lovely floral nose with hints of nuts, the palate has that soft texture, the fruit overlays some pear, earthy and meaty flavours. Muscular yet fresh, dry and easy to drink now, will improve over the next 2/3 years. Mushrooms, terrines and tofu are all mouth watering food suggestions. (PCH)

‘Quite an appealing icing-sugar nose and a dry, fresh, well made and eminently drinkable palate. Good entry-level stuff’. (AL)

The 2006 was tasted in February 2008 at SITT. White blossom aromas, broad and muscular, well balanced with earth and subtle spices underpinning pear and quince fruit. Fresh now, leave for a couple of years to develop further. Remarkably consistent every year, so buy and drink with confidence. (PCH)

The 2004 was a previous Wine Alchemy wine of the month, click here for full details.

£14.75 at Haynes, Hanson and Clark and £12.99 at Waitrose. (PCH)

Pinot Gris ‘1854 Fondation’ 2000. 14%

Prestige range. Very different from Fromenteau and another step up the quality ladder. Vanilla tinged honey, a rich, rounded grainy texture and much bigger bodied. Yet the alcohol is still in balance. Huge ripe fruit flavours and a slightly sweet gingerbread mid-palate, a hint of residual sugar. Orange peel (a little botrytis?). On the cusp of dry/off-dry. Everything comes together on a long length. A lovely subtle combination of taste and texture. Drinking now. Ideal with Foie Gras or a big powerful cheese like Reblochon. Also tasted at the Return to Terroir Tasting in London and again at Pol Roger.

£24.95 at Taurus Wines. (PCH)

‘This has quite a golden colour and a typically incorrect Pinot Gris nose – that slightly odd smell that always has me puzzling for a few seconds until my taste-memory kicks-in and I remember that this is what it is supposed to smell of! It has a rich, dry and unusually meaty character with an interesting slightly granular texture. Quite unusual but lovely’. (AL)

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Brand 2001. 13%

And this is the quintessence of Pinot Gris from a great vintage. There’s huge power, superb white blossom aromatics and that precision that seems to be the hallmark of the Brand Vineyard. A sumptuous honeyed texture, the most harmonious balance of fruit, acidity, alcohol and a touch of residual sugar. Figs and quince on the nose and palate. A dried fruit character (dried apricot?) on a lingering farewell, with hints of spice. Drinking now but will improve yet, no rush. Joyous and life affirming. Cellar Door € 26.30. (PCH)

‘Delightful nose of honey and blossom and Pinot Gris incorrectness! In the mouth this is rich with a dried fig nature, a little residual sugar and a spicy finish. There’s loads of acidity to balance the richness – delightful’. (AL)

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Hengst 2001. 13%

No actually, this really is the quintessence of Pinot Gris. Honey, vanilla, peach, minerals, quinces. Concentration and intensity, yet finesse and elegance. Densely textured and slightly bolder than the Brand, dried fruits with hint of nut and smoke on the finish. The best Pinot Gris I’ve encountered? Heading toward off-dry. Leave another 5 years – what can that bring? Cellar Door € 25.30. (PCH)

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Hengst 2002. 14%

A golden yellow with some viscosity, the nose is white flowers and just a hint of botrytis. The honeyed palate, off-dry, is full bodied and powerful, with a mouth filling texture leavened by good levels of acidity. The fruit is quince, quince and then more quince; a streak of minerality runs through before dried apricots appear on the finish. There’s just a hint of smoke. There’s certainly muscularity and vigour, but combined with precision and elegance. And yet it’s not really ready at age five, this wine could do with at least another five years sleep, but so hard to resist now. A roasted vegetable tart made with filo pastry proved to be a fine match. Cellar Door € 26.60. (PCH)

Gewurztraminer ‘Les Folastries’ 2005. 13.5%

Artists’ series. JosMeyer dry style – very dry. Fabulous rose and lychee aroma, good varietal typicity and fresh acidity, full-on fruity palate and the expected spices kick in at the end. Dry forward style and avoids heaviness or excessive oiliness. Excellent wine, rather fine drinking from an exceptional year. Few wines work with fresh tomatoes, this is one of them - try with tiny cherry tomatoes, nothing else! Also tasted at the Return to Terroir Tasting in London and at Pol Roger.

£15.25 at Haynes, Hanson and Clark. (PCH)

‘This is the most intensely rosewater perfumed Gewurztraminer I’ve had in a long time, so certainly no lack of varietal character. Even the palate is like spicy Turkish Delight. Quite unusual and a delicious aperitif’. (AL)

Gewurztraminer ‘Les Archenets’ 2000. 13.5%

Was this the last vintage made? Prestige range – more serious Gewurztraminer with bottle age. Deepening brassy gold. Turkish Delight and smoke aromas rise from the glass to meet you, less pungent but more complex than Folastries. A thicker, oilier palate so typical of Gewurztraminer, yet leavened with fresh acidity so not tiring to drink. Roses to the fore, especially on the length. At peak now, though I prefer Folastries. Fresh tomatoes? Slice them with pepper and balsamic vinegar. Cheese? The powerful stench from the local Munster cheese is perfect. Apparently mild curries work well too. Also tasted at Pol Roger.

The Wine Society, £18.00. (PCH)

‘Classic spice-and-rosewater nose. The palate is quite rich with a glycerine mouthfeel and a perfumed quality. Not at all over the top and as far as Alsace Gewurztraminer can be said to be restrained, this one fits the bill’. (AL)

‘Much softer more restrained, but still rosy on the nose with a touch of glycerine too. Palate has an oily mouth coating quality and rose perfume, but not overdone at all. Very good indeed, and not as challenging as the Folastries’. (AL, November 2007 reprise)

Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 1995. 12.5%

This wine had been open for eight days, a really special way to conclude this tasting with a Grand Cru wine at age 12 from a lovely vintage. The nose has developed honey and honeycomb (think cinder toffee), there’s quince and Mirabelle (a local yellow fruit) too. Mirabelle again on the palate plus the unmistakable orange peel trace of botrytis – very late harvesting has brought wondrous golden complexity. Some residual sugar but remarkably dry and well balanced. All-a-tangle complexity. An exotic wine for contemplation, I’m assuming it’s a late harvest Vendange Tardive rather than a Sélection de Grains Nobles. I kept thinking about Tarte Tatin afterwards.

£39.99 at Taurus Wines. (PCH)

‘This is made from vines planted in 1954. The nose for the grand cru, old vines plot is so much more intense, complex and complete than the preceding wines. It is spicy and rich with a distinct hint of perfumed poached quince. The palate is spicy, long, balanced and intense – lovely stuff, and good evidence that Gewurztraminer from good plots will last. Drinking well now, but no rush. What’s extraordinary is that this wine was opened 8 days ago! Amazing freshness! (AL)

Additional Tasting Notes from more JosMeyer encounters

‘Gris-Gris’, 2005. 12.5%

Generic entry level it may be but this blend of all the Pinot’s: Gris, Blanc, Noir and Auxerrois, is a smashing white wine for drinking now. A few bubbles in the glass and slight spritz indicate retained Carbon Dioxide. A leisurely lunchtime salad would be good. Pol Roger Tasting. Not available UK. (PCH)

‘Fleur de Lotus’, 2003. 12.5%

How to do a hot 2003 vintage properly - blend 36% Gewurztraminer with 16% Pinot Gris and 10% Riesling then top it up with Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc. The roses on the nose present nice aromatics, crisp dry palate. Simple but endearing fruit flavours, nicely ‘fat’, assume that’s the Gewurztraminer effect. Good complexity for the money, Thai heaven and in fact created deliberately for oriental dishes. Drink now. Pol Roger Tasting.

The 2006 is at Planet of the Grapes, £13.95. (PCH)

Riesling ‘Dragon’, 2004. 12.5%

From Herrenweg: a single vineyard site south of Turckheim. White blossom nose, full ripe fruit on palate – pear, passionfruit and hints of kerosene. Good long length with a slightly savoury finish and tiny bit of residual sugar that again is deliberately created for oriental cuisine – sushi/sashimi is a natural. Very young yet and would expect it improve over next couple of years at least. Pol Roger Tasting. Retasted a year later, February 2008 at SITT, there’s now a little touch of honey on the nose so some gradual development.

£13.15 at Haynes, Hanson and Clark. (PCH)

Riesling Cuvée Centenaire, 1969. 13%

A 38 year old wine, bottle number 391, from a good if not exceptional vintage bought at auction. Would it be ok? A good fill level and a decent label suggested it was worth taking a chance on. On opening, a crumbling cork but the wine was sound. Colour deepened to mid-gold. Far from over – nose has gentle petrol and limes and the palate still has a good dose of zesty lemon-lime fruit. Finely balanced and nicely dry. Clearly on a decline from peak but still very enjoyable. The finish showed an interesting creaminess, a slight brûlée note – perhaps a Maillard reaction from years of development? A bargain at £7.84 at Ilkley Wine Auction, 2007. (PCH)

Pinot Gris ‘Sélection H&B’, 1997, 13%

Palest brass. Pears and then more pears, on the nose and on the palate. Just off dry, a little residual sugar and a tight-rope-walker’s balance from a stunning vintage. Apples and quince come through at the end. Purity of fruit. H&B: Hengst and Brand Grand Cru vineyards blended together, so it can’t be an official Grand Cru. Superb with onion tart. WineLake II, 2004. (PCH)

‘H&B refers to the Hengst and Brand Grand Cru plots, from whence the fruit was sourced. Mid-gold colour. Delicious aromatic floral and peach nose with classic Pinot Gris funk as well. Palate is medium-bodied, rich and creamy. There’s minimal perceptible residual sugar and good balancing acidity. Great stuff’. (AL)

Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes, 1992. 13.5%

‘This has a pale gold colour and a wonderfully complex nose of apples and pears, honey, custard and cream – like apple crumble & custard! There’s also a touch of lime and grapefruit. Palate is dry and fresh and mineral with good acidity and remarkable length. Fab’. (AL, 2003)

Riesling l’Exception VT1995. 13%

‘This is a dessert wine of mid-gold colour. There’s lots of citrus, especially lime, but also some classic kerosene notes. Plenty of honey and maybe just a touch of botrytis? Very rich, very long and very good indeed with blueberry clafoutis’. (AL, 2003)

Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles, 1989. 13%

An old gold JosMeyer sweetie – an ‘SGN’ with buttery richness, complexity and concentration delivered by a very high incidence of Noble Rot. Crystallised fruits! Apricot and honey! Figs and spices! Huge forever length! A masterful piece of wine making. Foie Gras, naturellement, but also Christmas heaven – figs and dates. (PCH)

Final thoughts (for now)

JosMeyer also make The Wine Society’s own label Exhibition Alsace Riesling. Not tried yet but I imagine it delivers the goods for £9.95.

My personal JosMeyer favourites are the Pinot Gris Grand Cru from Hengst and Brand; both are truly the essence of Alsace. The Riesling and Gewurztraminer Grand Cru rank among the finest examples too. But don’t overlook the “humbler” wines in the range – they bring much pleasure and represent great value.

Alsace producers. Zind-Humbrecht, Weinbach, Trimbach and Hugel are legendary and long regarded as the top estates with some of the very best vineyard sites. Alsace is also a region blessed with biodynamic producers. Zind-Humbrecht and Weinbach (again), Deiss, Ostertag, Zusslin, Schlumberger, Rolly-Gassmann, Ginglinger, Muré and Kreydenweiss are just some of the estates where excellence can be found.

JosMeyer sit at the top table too – a 2020 Vision. Far from the simulacra of the mass market, JosMeyer make beautiful wines that are highly accessible and affordable. This is a superstar property run by people with perfectionist passion that epitomises the very best of Alsace. I’ve left the last word to Andy Leslie:

‘Are you troubled by Alsace wine? Had bad experiences with unexpected sweetness levels? Found yourself unable to finish a glass because the alcohol was so evident? Troubled by uneven and unpredictable producers? You need JosMeyer.

JosMeyer makes wine to drink, not to win points; they make wine to complement food, not bludgeon it into submission. The thread running through JosMeyer is a consistent quality of elegance, balance, poise and harmony. These are best expressed in the Grand Cru wines - in twenty years these will be among the legendary wines of Alsace’.