New
Zealand – a personal view
I was privileged and honoured to win the WSET Wine Club
Paten Scholarship in 2005. This enables the winner to study
the wines of a country or region of their choice.
Despite the great appeal of many wine-producing countries,
I chose to visit New Zealand without hesitation.
This article summarises just some of my personal highlights
from this study trip and acts as a background to my forthcoming
NZ winery profiles and hundreds of tasting notes, including
vertical tastings, library and barrel samples.
After returning from New Zealand I submitted a report to
the trustees of the Paten Scholarship. I didn’t know
that Jancis Robinson MW was a Trustee, and was surprised
and delighted when she offered to publish the report on her
website. You can find that at www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/winenewspaten.
Meanwhile, this slightly remixed version is a little longer.....
Why New Zealand?
New Zealand has a long but frequently turbulent history
of winemaking, with vines originally planted back in 1836.
New Zealand’s current reputation for high quality rests
on radical developments that date back only to the 1970’s
and 1980’s. Its image of “the riches of a clean,
green land” is a relatively recent phenomenon.
New Zealand is a niche player, producing only 0.3% of the
world’s wine and only accounting for 1.5% of the UK
market. Nevertheless the expansion of Kiwi wine is phenomenal,
and the UK market has been a key element:
- The number of wineries has increased by 150% in 5 years.
Now there are some 520, with a rate of establishment of
one new winery opening every week;
- The productive area under vine has grown 250% in the
last 10 years, to 21,000 ha;
- 2005 export volumes were not only at record levels, for
the first time they exceeded domestic consumption;
- 41% of New Zealand’s wine exports are to the UK,
a market that saw 50% growth in 2004-2005;
- New Zealand wine commands ultra-premium pricing. The
average retail price per bottle in the UK is the highest
of any country over the last 7 yrs, and although it continues
to fall, as volumes and discounting increases, it still
stands at £6.55, 75% higher than the all-country
average of £3.75.
While New Zealand is most famous for its world-renowned
and utterly distinctive Sauvignon Blanc, especially from
Marlborough, it has far more to offer from a wide variety
of white and red grapes. In fact the New Zealand wine industry
is characterised by diversity and innovation, and the excitement
this generates is palpable. What’s Hot? Some of the
current trends are summarised below.
Hot Whites
Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc is inescapable. It has made a huge international
impact since the first plantings in Marlborough in the 1970’s.
Much of New Zealand’s growth has been fuelled by seemingly
insatiable demand and it now accounts for over one third
of plantings and over 70% of exports. Although grown throughout
New Zealand, it is at its most classic in Marlborough. Because
of demand, Marlborough is forecast to account for 50% of
New Zealand’s total area under vine by 2008.
The pungent Marlborough style is immediately distinctive,
marked by herbaceous and tropical aromas. However there are
clear signs that there is increasing divergence from this.
Some producers are aiming for ever higher concentrations
of methoxypyrazine – the organic compound that characterises
Kiwi Sauvignon. However some of the wines are now so intensely
aromatic that they risk becoming caricatures. In contrast,
a style gaining ground is one more akin to French Sancerre.
Here the pungency is kept in check, the aim being to produce
less assertive softer wines that have more subtleness and
minerality. Typically these are being produced by boutique
winemakers seeking to differentiate themselves by expressing “terroir”.
There is also considerable experimentation at all quality
levels, e.g. by adding small amounts of barrel-fermented/matured
wines to bring more complexity.
While there are no signs of consumer fickleness toward Sauvignon
Blanc, most producers are growing a range of other aromatic
white wines e.g. Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris
and Viognier, and also large amounts of Chardonnay. There
are many excellent examples of all these varieties but arguably
the one likely to become the next big success is Pinot Gris.
Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris is a fast-growing category. New Zealand’s
4th most planted white variety, (behind Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay and Riesling), it will overtake Riesling to claim
3rd place by 2008. Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay presently
account for over 50% of plantings but plantings are expanding
in all regions. Pinot Gris has become the epitome of fashion.
Many reasons are advanced for this, one being that it appeals
to those tiring of Chardonnay, another that it is relatively
straightforward to cultivate. A third is that it is an easy
food match, particularly with New Zealand’s fusion
cuisine.
However, New Zealand Pinot Gris has not developed a single
style. While its malleability makes for considerable interest
and versatility, it does impede consumer perceptions of what
the grape stands for. There are perhaps four identifiable
Pinot Gris styles.
The first is akin to Italian Pinot Grigio, dry, light and
with no pronounced flavour, designed for early drinking.
In marked contrast is an Alsace-style with ability to age,
which is dry but much riper and bigger bodied, with higher
alcohol and a focus on smooth texture.
The third style is recognisably New World, where the Alsace-style
wine is given maturation in new French Oak. The amounts used
vary by producer, from the subtle to the very high toast,
in a way similar to that found with Chardonnay.
Lastly and perhaps the greatest expression of New Zealand
Pinot Gris is an off-dry style where a little residual sugar
enhances the wine’s silky texture and balance. These
wines are sometimes barrel matured and again age well.
Sweet wines
Over one hundred different examples of sweet “dessert” wines
are made in small quantities in New Zealand and a wide range
of white grapes are used – Riesling is the most popular,
but Chardonnay, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer,
Chenin Blanc, Pinot Gris and Viognier can all be found.
The most high profile sweet wines originate from Marlborough
but wineries in other regions are also now making examples
of often outstanding quality.
These wines come in two main styles. Firstly there are Late
Harvest wines, similar to the French Vendange Tardive or
German Auslesen styles. Generally these are delicate
and gently sweet, with light fresh fruit flavours.
Then there are the Botrytised wines, similar in style to
the sweet wines of Sauternes or the Loire. Capable of great
age, they have a refreshing acidity to balance their intense
sweetness and a powerful array of honeyed dried fruit flavours
imparted by Noble Rot.
Because the action of Botrytis is unpredictable
and erratic, as it needs autumnal morning mists followed
by clear warm days to flourish, so these wines are rarely
made every vintage.
These world-class wines remain rare in the UK because the
European Union currently considers them incompatible with
EU standards. New Zealand requested derogation for sweet
wines in 2000 and see this restriction simply as a trade
barrier. This impasse is still outstanding and needs to be
resolved.
Click here for tasting notes on Sweet Wines
Hot Reds
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is New Zealand’s red wine success. While
it is almost a cliché to state that Pinot Noir is
capricious, it has become the second most planted variety,
with over 4,000 hectares projected by 2008. In particular
the cool climates of Martinborough and fashionable Central
Otago have been found to be especially felicitous. Here Pinot
Noir remains the winemakers’ Holy Grail, with Burgundy
their touchstone.
International accolades are numerous and demand outstrips
supply. Now many producers feel that a Pinot Noir in their
wine range is becoming an essential badge of prestige. Consequently
plantings in other areas such as Marlborough and Hawke’s
Bay are also increasing and here there is potential to increase
volumes significantly.
Comparisons with Burgundy are inevitable but New Zealand
Pinot Noir is rapidly developing its own distinctive style,
often with deeper colour, purer fruit and higher alcohol.
While regional differences are apparent, the best wines do
have Burgundy’s elusive complexity, mouthfeel and “pinosity” and
are capable of ageing.
It is a testament to the skill and craft of New Zealand
producers that poor examples are infrequently encountered.
While most Pinot Noir can be classed as “good” -
therein lies the challenge to improve still further- still
only a handful are “great” and these have now
reached icon status.
However the quality trend is still very much upwards. As
site selection improves, young vines mature and the newer
Dijon clones come on stream, so the potential for New Zealand
Pinot Noir will be realised. Meanwhile, “second labels” have
emerged as a method of marketing volume production or younger
vines at a lower price without damaging the reputation of
the main winery brand.
Syrah
A century ago Syrah was widely planted and known as “Hermitage” but
it has had a chequered history. Because of the cool, wet
climate and vine vigour, Syrah frequently produced thin acidic
wine that lacked colour.
By 1984 there was no interest left in Syrah. The remaining
vines were rescued from a viticultural research station and
replanted at Stonecroft Estate in Hawke’s Bay.
Hawke’s Bay is dry and sunny, and planting inland
provides the extra heat that Syrah needs. In particular,
the Gimblett Gravels and Ngatarawa Triangle are producing
high quality distinctive red wines that need bottle age.
These areas possess stony gravel soils, the remnants of old
river beds. Their low fertility and free-draining nature
reduces vine vigour and yields.
Since this initial success a quiet revolution has occurred.
In the last decade, Syrah plantings have grown over 400%,
from 62 hectares to 264 hectares. Three-quarters of this
is in Hawke’s Bay, with smaller pockets in Auckland
and Marlborough.
There are dozens of award-winning wines emerging, with more
in common with the Syrahs of the Northern Rhône than
the Australian Shiraz style. Some producers are also co-fermenting
it with Viognier, bringing deeper colour and aromatics similar
to that of the Rhône’s Côte-Rôtie.
Click here for tasting notes on Syrah
New pioneers in Waitaki
Waitaki, also known as North Otago, is New Zealand’s
newest wine region, sited between the towns of Duntroon and
Kurow on the Waitaki river and inland from South Island’s
Pacific coast. The vines that have been planted here after
painstaking viticultural research are creating considerable
excitement.
Waitaki’s north-facing sunny slopes enjoy a mild climate
suitable for producing fashionable “cool climate” varieties
such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc. Compared
with rapidly expanding Central Otago to the south, grape
growing is less risky here because of the moderating influence
of the Pacific Ocean. Frost is unlikely and the growing season
is longer with lower peak summer temperatures.
The biggest single reason for the excitement is the limestone-based
soil. In New Zealand, limestone soils that also occur in
areas climatically suitable for grapes are extremely rare.
Waitaki’s limestone may have different characteristics
to that found in Burgundy but it is this combination of soil,
grape and climate that is unique in New Zealand.
Some of the leading lights of the New Zealand wine scene
are already making wines from Waitaki vineyards and the North
Otago Vignerons’ Association (NOVA) has recently been
created.
The first commercial vintage released was in 2004 and some
of these wines are now reaching the UK in small quantities.
The vines are very young so it is too early to assess whether
the limestone soils will be influential in creating a distinctive
Waitaki style. However, comparing Pinot Noirs from Waitaki
with Central Otago, the Waitaki wines show a more savoury
character and have less exuberant fruit, but show the silky
texture that is the hallmark of good Pinot Noir. This new
region is certainly one to watch and it was a special pleasure
to be one of the region’s first wine tourists.
Click here for
Tasting Notes on Waitaki Wines
Ecology
New Zealand’s image is based on “the riches
of a clean, green land”. Since 1995, SWNZ (Sustainable
Winegrowing New Zealand) has helped protect this image, vital
to export markets, by certifying sustainable wine growing
practices. There are now more than 400 participating vineyards.
To go one step further, the Living Wine initiative has developed
these ideas to cover operations in the winery, awarding ISO
14001 status for excellent eco-friendly winery management.
While I encountered some SWNZ members that described themselves
as organic, this is not strictly true and there remain relatively
few fully certified organic wine producers. Another half-dozen
of the top producers are practising biodynamic methods. BD
had previously attracted a great deal of scepticism, but
now this is gaining ground and attitudes are softening. Some
vineyards are introducing some of the more practical biodynamic
techniques, notably composting and spraying, as a way of
improving quality.
It is also apparent that the native ecology has undergone
huge destruction over the past century, as a result of logging,
grazing and the introduction of foreign species. While many
native habitats remain, much has been lost to the deeds of
the past and many native species of flora and fauna, including
NZ’s national symbol, the Kiwi, are now under severe
pressure and threatened with extinction.
Clive Paton at Ata Rangi in Martinborough really brought
this home to me after spending the day with him at the “Bush
Block”, fifty hectares of bush that he is restoring
and replanting with native trees. The block’s rare
and genetically valuable species are now protected by a covenant
preventing any future grazing or logging. Regeneration is
a slow process and it is expected that maturity will take
at least 60 years. This is an outstanding example
of how wineries can take a lead in wider ecological issues.
Some conclusions
Other aromatic white grapes such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer
and Viognier are doing well, and Chardonnay can be of very
high quality. Other reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec
and Merlot are now producing stunning wines too. Then there
are multifarious experiments with varieties as diverse as
Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional,
Zinfandel, Verdelho and even Pinotage. The sparkling wines
are of good quality and there’s now an explosion in
rosé production.
The highly successful NZ Screwcap initiative dominates the
scene and is now gaining ground worldwide.
There is constant experimentation and innovation, high skill
and quality levels, strength in diversity, a pioneering spirit
and above all a willingness to take risks.
Add to all this stunning scenery, an outdoor lifestyle,
abundant produce and a vibrant food culture - exploring New
Zealand wines is both essential and life-affirming.
Finally, I’d like to thank WSET for enabling the opportunity,
together with New Zealand Winegrowers and the “Family
of XII” for their assistance in planning the visit.
Most of all I’d like to thank the two-dozen or so wineries
that gave so much of their time, energy and wines.
They have left me with an abiding love of Aotearoa, the
Land of the Long White Cloud. |
