Wine
of the Month, March 2010
Orovela. Chandrebi Estate Saperavi, Kakheti, Georgia. 2004. 12.5%
Would you like to widen your range of wine experiences? 'Course you would.
So we're off to the Black Sea and the Caucasus, to the crossroads of Europe and Asia, to a country who lays claim to being the oldest wine growing area - it's certainly a candidate. But regardless of whether the first wine originates from here, Georgia has around 500 native grape varieties to call on, the majority of which are largely unknown to us.
Georgia has a long history stretching back to classical antiquity and wine-making even today can employ ancient methods. Georgia was invaded by the Bolsheviks and incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1922. In agriculture, collectivism and under investment followed. Independence was restored in 1991, shortly before the final Soviet collapse, with vines and wineries returned to private ownership. Like many post-communist countries, Georgia then suffered from economic crisis and conflict. Meanwhile, Russia had always regarded Georgian wines highly and was the main export market, taking 80% of production. However, antagonisms between the two states resulted in a complete Russian ban on Georgian wine in 2006. While this is causing great pain to the Georgian wine industry it is a major reason why it is now diversifying into new markets such as the UK and why their wine quality is improving in order to compete on the world stage. Russia's loss could ultimately be our gain.
Saperavi is Georgia's flagship red grape. The name means "paint" or "dye" in Georgian and it is an unusual red grape because it has red juice. It is primarily grown in the Kakheti region, the most important wine area. This is found on the eastern side of the country, sandwiched between Russia and Azerbaijan. Saperavi is made in a range of styles but best when made as a dry red wine designed to improve with bottle age - and Orovela is one of the finest of these.
Orovela is the name of a traditional ploughing song. The Saperavi for it is grown at the 40 hectare Chandrebi vineyard. This has a continental climate characterised by hot summers that is cooled by an altitude of 540 metres. The vineyard was founded by Giorgi Sulkanishvilli, who acquired and replanted it to modern standards in 2001. The wine is made by Lado Uzunashvili using modern viticultural and vinification techniques for high quality - for example, deliberately restricting yields and maturing the wine in French and American oak barrels for 12 months.
These techniques seem to have brought out the best from the Saperavi grape - rather than blot out its character by imposing some bland international style the wine has a personality that sings out clearly. Perhaps it is wines like these that signpost the future for Georgia's wines - a winning combination of the modern and traditional and highly individual. Most importantly the high quality on offer should appeal to any wine lover.
At five years old the colour is still a lively deep purple and the bluish rim suggests further keeping potential. Initially it's not especially aromatic, but lifted floral notes develop in the glass - Parma violets. On the palate there are hints of green leaf backing mulberry, blackberry and plum fruit, with hints of nutmeg - there's enough intensity on offer without it being a fruit bomb. While the wine has seen oak ageing there's no overt oak influence to get in the way. There's good balance too, between zippy acidity and tannins that still have a little grip. Neither is there any shortage of body despite the alcohol being a moderate (and welcome) 12.5%. A creamy texture and smoky and slightly dusty finish means it's easy to drink and partner up with food. An individual and distinctive wine, if you need a more familiar reference point for this particular example of Saperavi then perhaps Cabernet Franc has some similarities.
With an attractive label, there is nothing about Orovela that isn't high of quality. To nit-pick, the steroidal bottle designed to show off its credentials weighs over a Kilo - but the misguided association of bottle weight with quality is one all too common in the premium wine sector regardless of source.
And food? Grilled meats in a Mediterranean style such as Lamb would seem appropriate but my take is that it is a versatile food partner for meats and cheese.
And you don't need take my word for the quality of this wine - it's listed by UK superstar restaurants like The Fat Duck and La Trompette.
Orovela is a fine place to start an exploration of Georgia's wine heritage - bring 'em on.
All this is yours for £14.99 from The Georgian Wine Society.
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