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Wine of the Month, July 2008

AC St. Joseph Blanc, Domaine Florentin, Clos de l’Arbalastrier/le Clos, Northern Rhône, France. 1998/99/2002/05. 12.5% Organic

I first came across the 2002 vintage of this wine at WineLake II . Clos de l'Arbalestrier (Now known as “le Clos”), is made by Dominique Florentin, who succeeded his father Émile. The St. Joseph appellation follows the west bank of the northern Rhône Valley and is a fine source of red Syrah and underrated white wines. The Domaine Florentin is in the town of Mauves and can trace its history back to 1528. Only a small estate, its main holding is this walled vineyard of 4 ha to the south of the town that has a particularly sunny aspect and ripens earlier than its neighbours. The Clos is mostly given over to Syrah but there is also 0.8 ha of Rousanne and 0.2 ha of Marsanne, from which this elegant old-vine white wine is made.

All cultivation is organic. There are no synthetic chemicals and a horse draws the plough. Recently however this cuvée had to change its name to “le Clos” in 2001 as the name clashed with a vineyard in Switzerland.

The blend is roughly 60% Rousanne to 40% Marsanne but the exact ratio depends on the vintage conditions. Both these white grape varieties are indigenous to the Rhône, the Rousanne brings elegance and the Marsanne “fat” and weight – it is unusual though for this appellation to contain such a high proportion of Rousanne, as most examples are Marsanne-dominant. I think it is this that makes this wine so impressive.

The wine is fermented in oak casks and spends two winters maturing in oak barrels, but if any new oak is used it is a pretty low proportion, as there are no overt oak flavours to mark the wine. In the first year, the Marsanne and Rousanne are kept apart, then they are blended together. Bottled is without fining or filtering.

This white wine is understated and terrific with food. Yet it still represents fantastic value for money. The colour deepens with age to a brassy gold, while the nose is richly scented, all acacia and smoke. On the palate it’s broad and weighty, silkily textured yet surprisingly fresh and delicate too – don’t overchill or you’ll neuter it – careful with that ice bucket, Eugene. The fruit is peach and apricot mixed with almonds and other nuts before that smoke comes back on a long and satisfying length. There is the merest maderized quality that adds interest and complexity. Don’t let that terribly traditional label put you off!

Not a blockbuster and trading subtlety for power, this wine really needs food to shine. So thankfully it makes an excellent foil for fish dishes (Skate in black butter is divine), shellfish and, perhaps surprisingly, foie gras.

While there is much to enjoy young, this wine will improve. At 8-10 years, it will probably be at peak and then hold for another five. Thankfully, older vintages are still available to buy.

A good source is usually the Wine Society, which generally offers the latest vintage each spring.

Blenheim fine wines list the 1999 for just £13.00, an absolute bargain. Alban wines have the 1999 for £14.85 and the 2005 for £17.45, while Everywine has it at £16.97 (1999) and £17.80 (2005)